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Tuesday, December 3, 2024

Index - Badari Yaatra Experiences

Index of Contents - My First Badari Yaatra

This is the table of contents of my travelogue, elucidating the day's activities and experiences. Places visited on each of the days, are given below the link and explained in the travelogue.

Happy reading!

Day - 1 https://mycentortwo.blogspot.com/2024/11/my-first-badari-yaatra-part-1-05112024.html

Places visited:

  1. Mann Ichha Devi Temple - Rishikesh Road, Near Dehradun.
  2. Rudra Prayag - Hotel Orchid near Rudra Prayag for night halt

Day - 2 https://mycentortwo.blogspot.com/2024/11/my-first-badari-yaatra-part-2-06112024.html

Places visited:

  1. Karna Prayag - Confluence of the Rivers Pindar Ganga and Alakananda
  2. Bairaskund
  3. Lakshmi Narayana Temple - Gulabkoti
  4. Joshimath - Neelkanth Hotel for night halt
  1. Narasinh Mandir Samuha
  2. Bhavishya Badari & Lakshmi Narayana Temple
  3. Mana Village - Origin of Saraswathi River, Bheem Pul, Maharshi Vyas & Lord Ganesh Gufas
  4. Badarinath Temple - Shayan Aarti
  5. Night halt at Charan Paduka Hotel 
  1. Brahma Kapaal - Where we performed Rites for our ancestors
  2. Badarinath Temple
  3. Vishnu Charan Paduka - Trek of 2 km 
  4. Hanuman Chatti
  5. Pandukeshwar - Yogadhyan Badari, Vasudeva Temples
  6. Vishnu Prayag - Vishnu Temple, Confluence of the rivers Dauli Ganga and Alakananda 
  7. Joshimath - Shankara Mutt, Lakshmi Narayan Temple, Raja Rajeshwari Temple, etc.
  8. Hanuman, Shiva and Bhavishya Kedar outside the Shankar Mutt complex.
  9. Joshimath - Neelkanth Hotel for night halt
  1. Vridha Badari
  2. Kalpeshwar - Cave temple of Lord Shiva - one of the Pancha Kedars
  3. Dhyaan Badari
  4. Gopinath Mandir at Gopeshwar
  5. Serai, Phata - Hotel Shri Hari for night halt
  1. Mund Khatiya - Ganesh Temple
  2. Triyugi Narayan Temple
  3. Narayan Koti - Gupt Kashi
  4. Vishwanath Temple - Gupt Kashi
  5. Kali Math
  6. Anirudh Temple - Ukhimath
  7. Rudra Prayag - Hotel 10 Batallion for night halt
  1. Rudra Prayag - Dip at the holy Sangam and darshan at Shiva Temple 
  2. Aadi Badari - Syalkot
  3. Katarmal - Homestay for night halt
  1. Katarmal Sun Temple
  2. Jageshwar Dhaam for Jageshwar Nagesham Jyothirlinga, Maha Mruthyunjaya Temple, Pushti Devi Temple, etc.
  3. Patal Bhuvaneshwar Caves
  4. Choukri - Hotel Himshikar for night halt
  1. Bagheswar temple - Bagheswar and the confluence of rivers Gomati and Sarayu
  2. Baijnath (Baidyanath) Temple
  3. Satyanarayana Temple
  4. Rudra Prayag - Hotel 10 Batallion for night halt
  1. Dhari Devi Temple
  2. Raghunath Ram Mandir - Dev Prayag and the confluence of rivers Alakananda and Bhagirathi
  3. Har Ki Pouri - Haridwar for Ganga Aarti
  4. Hotel Sterling Shoolin -  Haridwar for night halt
Epilogue 
  1. Day 11 Activities and Epilogue

        My First Badari Yaatra - Epilogue.

        Day 11 Activities & Epilogue:

        This morning; Dwarkanath, Sumithra and Suma Aunty left to have a dip in the river Ganga as it was an auspicious day in the Hindu calendar – Kartika Hunnime (Fullmoon). We (Anil, Radha and I) woke up a bit leisurely and got ready to leave once the trio arrived from their dip. 

        Upon their arrival, we loaded our stuff onto the vehicle for the final lap of our trip, to the Airport in New Delhi but not before, as a parting shot, we (except Suma Aunty) had a filling breakfast of kulcha-chole at a roadside eatery.

               

        En route, we had tea and Paneer Pakodas at Meerut, which was quite filling. Thereafter, it was ‘Ab Dilli Door Nahin’. We met up with Arun Joshi near the Akshardham underpass. He was instrumental in arranging for transportation and accommodation at most places. Pleasant guy and quite helpful. He and Anil chatted on the arrangements for Anil’s ensuing trip. 

        From there, we went to have a quick bite as it was almost 16h30 and we had to reach the airport on time too, for our return flight. We thanked the driver Sanjay and Arun Joshi for their roles in our quest to see various places in Dev Bhoomi (Uttarakhand).

        Reaching the airport well ahead of time, we checked in our bags, completed the security formalities and started the long wait for our flight to be announced. My stomach was full and I didn’t need anything to eat. The terminal on the ground level from where we were to get on to our flight, was nothing short of a crowded bus terminus. We waited for quite a while before our flight was open for boarding. 

        Taking the weight off my legs, once I boarded the flight, I slept all the way through, only to wake up just in time to see the flight landing at Bengaluru.

        As we strolled out of the airport, Dwarkanath and Sumithra were received by their son, daughter-in-law and grandson (whom I met for the first time). Sweet couple and a cute kid! Radha took the public transport while we waited for our pick-up arranged by Anil. Suma Aunty got dropped first and Anil was scouting to eat something as he was famished going by his body language. We found a mobile eatery open, close to our places and had Dosa before dropping Anil. Yours truly, getting dropped the last. The time was 01h40 on the 16th of November when I reached home.

        Though completely worn out physically and mentally, I got up at my usual time the next day and quickly started unpacking stuff and emptied the luggage. Clothes were segregated and washing was the only thing to be done. That day onwards, I got so busy with the preparations for my niece's marriage, scheduled for the 19th and 20th of November, that deferred writing this travelogue and publishing it on my blog, till the ceremonies were over. 

        Epilogue:

        This was my first trip to Uttarakhand and what a trip this has been! Though we missed out on a few temples from our itinerary, we could see a lot of temples (that most of the tour operators miss out on, due to lack of knowledge, time, or inclination) and more importantly four of the five Prayags (Vishnu Prayag, Karna Prayag, Rudra Prayag and Dev Prayag) missing out on Nanda Prayag - the confluence of Rivers Alakananda and Nandakini, six of the seven Badaris (Badari Vishal, Yogadhyana Badari, Dhyana Badari, Aadi Badari, Vridha Badari and Bhavishya Badari) missing out on Ardha Badari. 

        Well, there is always a next time.

        Looking back on the trip as a whole, it was a pleasant trip right from the word GO, with a very cohesive group of people and I am sure others in the group will agree with my opinion. 

        Looking forward to my next trip with this group!

        For those interested, please contact me should you need assistance in visiting any or all the places that have been mentioned in the last 9 parts of my travelogue. Mr Arun Joshi, in New Delhi, is one of the most experienced persons who can plan your itinerary and arrange for accommodation at various places of your interest, including transportation from either New Delhi, Dehradun or should you prefer, from Haridwar too. I will share his contact coordinates by a direct message, for those interested.

        As for the cost per person, few of the members felt that we saved at least a third of what we would have otherwise paid to tour organisers. I am sure this was possible only due to Suma Aunty's long-term relations with Arun and various others at places that we visited. Her links with the priests at many of the temples proved to be a great advantage too. Additionally, below are a few more advantages of traveling in a small group.

        • Flexibility in planning the itinerary and adapting to changes on the fly.
        • With an experienced (well-traveled) and connected coordinator, you can expect to visit various off-beat and rare places of interest.
        • Flexibility in unscheduled halts - for food, scenic views, taking pictures, pit-stops, etc.  
        Acknowledgements:

        1. To all the participants in this travel group - Suma Aunty, Dwarkanath, Sumithra, Radha and Anil, I thank each one of you for your excellent company at all times! 
        2. Thanks a lot; Suma Aunty, Sumithra and Radha for arranging assorted titbits (both homemade and outsourced) that kept our hands and mouths exercising, throughout our journey!😋
        3. Thanks a lot, Suma Aunty for the freshly brewed coffee first thing every morning and the sumptuous breakfast to kickstart the day. Much appreciated! 
        4. My roommate Anil - thanks for bearing with my sound sleep - pun intended!😉
        5. Suma Aunty - Thanks for superb planning and coordination in conducting the tour, where we could see rare and off-beat places of interest! I will direct the requests from a lot of readers and friends who have heard of your experience and wish to seek your advice for their travel plans.
        6. Sanjay Pathania - our Saarathi, who despite being pressurised, drove the vehicle with utmost dedication while keeping in mind, the safety and security of the passengers at all times - Great job and thank you very much!
        7. Arun Joshi, the unseen hero in making things happen, particularly the arrangements for Hotel Accommodation that used to always be on the fly - Thanks a lot! I am sure I will get requests from a lot of readers who intend to travel to these places and I will trouble you by directing their requests to you.
        8. Credits are given as footnotes, wherever due and in specific days' parts of the travelogue. Without these references, the travelogue would have been incomplete and I am grateful to them.
        9. Lastly, to all the readers of my travelogue; a huge thanks for your support and encouragement. Your views, reviews and comments mean a lot to me and encourage me to share the experiences of this holy travel through my writing. 

        I am privileged to get the below picture of Lord Badarinath, from one of the Pundits who helped us perform the rites for our ancestors at Badarinath, which I am sharing with the readers.


        Signing off on behalf of the group, with humble gratitude to Him for a blessed successful completion of our tour of His temples and prayers from all of us for Universal Peace and the betterment of all living beings in the World! 

        Shanti Mantra:
        Om Sarve Bhavantu Sukhinah                    सर्वे भवन्तु सुखिनः
        Sarve Santu Niraamayaah |                               सर्वे सन्तु निरामयाः ।
        Sarve Bhadraani Pashyantu                              सर्वे भद्राणि पश्यन्तु
        Maa Kashcid-Duhkha-Bhaag-Bhavet |             मा कश्चिद्दुःखभाग्भवेत् ।
        Om Shaantih Shaantih Shaantih ||                     शान्तिः शान्तिः शान्तिः ॥

        Jai Badri Vishaal!!

        My First Badari Yaatra - Part 10 - 14/11/2024

        Day – 10 (14/11/2024)

        Our ninth day's itinerary:  Baghnath, Baijnath and Satyanarayan Temple.

        A recap of the ninth day's places of visit: Baghnath, Baijnath & Satyanarayan Temple.

        Plans for the tenth day: Dhari Devi Temple, Dev Prayag - Raghunath Ram Mandir and Confluence of the rivers Bhagirathi and Alakananda, Haridwar - HarkiPouri for Ganga Aarti and night halt at Haridwar.

        Have a seat and experience our Day 10 visit.

        As it dawned, we checked out of the hotel, lugging our luggage to the ever-dependent vehicle and handed it over to ever-obliging Sanjay, who made sure that 'everything had a place and everything was in its place' inside the vehicle.

        Our first stop was Dhari Devi temple, some 15 km, on our way to Rishikesh. The temple is on an island in Alakananda River where a dam is constructed and the earlier temple was rescued from getting submerged due to the construction of this dam. There is a lovely bridge walkway to reach the temple but the climb is a tedious one. I was told by Suma Aunty that because it was off-season, there was no crowd. Else there would be a long queue to have darshana of the Devi. 

        For those who can't take this arduous route of the steps, there is a vehicle facility where you pay  Rs. 100/- per person as return fare. The vehicle takes you close enough to the bridge from where you can walk to the temple and return by this vehicle.

        Interesting information about this temple:

        Dhari Devi Temple is a Hindu temple located on the banks of the Alakananda River between Srinagar and Rudraprayag.

        The temple is home to the upper half of the idol of the goddess Dhari, while the lower half of the idol is located in Kalimath, where she is worshipped, in the form of Sri Yantra, as a manifestation of the Goddess Kali. One can bring and offer small rice (Jeera Sambar Rice) to the temple that will be used to decorate the Devi.

        She is considered to be the guardian deity of Uttarakhand and is revered as the protector of the Char Dhams. Her shrine is one of 108 Shakti Sthals in India, as numbered by Shrimad Devi Bhagwat.

        2013 Uttarakhand floods

        On June 16, 2013, the original temple of the goddess was removed and shifted to the concrete platform at a height of about 611 meters from the Alakananda River, to give way to the construction of the 330 MW Alaknanda Hydro Electric Dam built by Alaknanda Hydro Power Company Ltd (AHPCL), a subsidiary of infrastructure major.

        Dhari Devi Temple in 2002 (courtesy Wikipedia) 

                   
        Dhari Devi Temple - November 2024

        Incidentally, Hours after the idol was moved, the region faced what would become one of the country’s worst natural disasters since the 2004 tsunami. The 2013 North India floods were caused by a multi-day cloudburst resulting in devastating floods and landslides washing away the entire shrine town and killing hundreds of people. Locals and devotees believe, Uttarakhand had to face the Goddess’ ire as she was shifted from her ‘mool sthan’ (original abode) to make way for a 330 MW hydel project that was left in ruins after the flood. A similar attempt in 1882 by a local king had resulted in a landslide that had flattened Kedarnath.

        The new temple is now constructed at its original location.[1]

        Taking cue from my earlier request to the group, Suma Aunty told me to rush to the temple first so that I could recite Durga Saptha Shati beeja mantra, Aragala Stotra and meditate for some time too before others joined and so I literally ran down the steps. The experience of chanting and meditating was unbelievably blissful.  The Devi’s idol has such a calming effect and oozes positive vibrations for those who can perceive these subtle sensations. I could feel that my visit was fruitful and complete with the divine Darshana of Maa Dhari Devi.

                
                                                In front of Dhari Devi Temple                      Maa Dhari Devi

        We had quinoa khichdi for breakfast, again thanks to Suma Aunty while Sumithra and Dwarkanath had parathas and curd which Anil and I shared with them.

        Our next stop was Dev Prayag, a distance of around 50 km that took just over an hour to reach. Crossing the hanging bridge over the River Bhagirati, and a short walk brings us to the confluence of Alakananda and Bhagirathi rivers. The main temple here is Raghunath Mandir and this temple houses Lord Rama without the usual company of Lakshmana, Seetha and Hanuman. It is said that Lord Rama performed penance here for killing a Brahman (Ravana) and so is the reason for his solo appearance. The climb of 110 steps to reach the temple is pretty steep and it is a practice to wash your feet in the confluence of rivers before climbing up to the temple.

                     
               Raghunath at Dev Prayag        View of the temple           101 Steps to reach the temple

                   
                                Maa Annapurna Temple                            Lord Narasimha 

        The confluence of Rivers Bhagarati on the right and Alakananda on the left

           
                         View of Bhagirati River from both sides of the hanging bridge

        Other temples in the complex are of Lord Narasimha and Goddess Annapoorna. It is believed that the mystic river Saraswathi flows directly underneath the idol and at times the foot of the idol is wet with water from the river.

        The confluence of rivers creates the mighty river Ganga, as it is known downstream, from Dev Prayag onwards. This completes our visit to the Panch Prayag and the confluences of great rivers at each of these places.

         (Picture Courtesy FaceBook)

        Pictorial Presentation of Chaar Dhaam, Pancha Prayag and the Five Rivers Confluences

        The group, except Suma Aunty, had a bite into the momos here along with masala lime soda while Suma Aunty had just salted lime juice.

        There is a Central Sanskrit University at Dev Prayag, that is housed in a beautiful structure, on the slopes of a mountain overlooking the town.

                                                        Central Sanskrit University, Dev Prayag

        We then climbed back into our vehicle and proceeded to our next destination, Haridwar, a distance of around 92 km that we covered in just under 3 hours and en route, had lunch at a roadside hotel. We were eager to reach Haridwar before 17h00 to witness the much-celebrated Ganga Aarti. Sanjay brought us in time for a quick check-in at the hotel as we freshened up and hastened towards Harkipouri, where we witnessed the famed Ganga Aarti, along with at least a hundred thousand other people. The energy levels at the time of Aarti are something that has to be seen to be believed. The dedication and resolve of the crowd, at the time during the Aarti process, is something beyond ordinary!

                       

                                                Ganga Aarati at Har Ki Pauri, Haridwar

                 
                            Ganga Pooja and Aarti at Har Ki Pauri by Sumithra and Dwarakanath

        Anil and I did some window shopping while others returned to the hotel. I skipped dinner as I had a late lunch and felt full.

        Plan vs. Actual:

        Visited Dhari Devi, Dev Prayag - Raghunath Ram Temple at the confluence of the Rivers Bhagirati and Alakananda, witnessed the famed Ganga Aarti at Harkipouri in Haridwar.

        ----------------------------------------

        Camp coordinates: Hotel Royal Central Shoolin Suites, Dudhadari Chowk, Bhoopatwala, Haridwar         Phone: +91 7060363368, +91 6397583919

        https://maps.app.goo.gl/hETZpzHyLYPwWPJv5

        ------------------------------------------

        Continued .... in The Conclusion



        [1] From the website https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhari_Devi

        Monday, December 2, 2024

        My First Badari Yaatra - Part 9 - 13/11/2024

        Day – 9 (13/11/2024)

        Our seventh and eighth day's itinerary:  Gopeswar, Vaitarni, Tunganath, Anirudh Temple, Vishwanath Mandir, Maa Kali, Maa Tripura Sundari Lalita Mayi Mandir, Narayan Koti, Mundkatiya, Kalimath, Triyugnarayana, Agastymuni, Rudraprayag. 

        A recap of the eighth day's places of visit: Katarmal Sun Temple, Jageshwar Dham, Patal Bhuvaneshwar and night halt at Choukri.

        Plans for the ninth day: Baghnath, Baijnath, Satyanarayan Temple and night halt at Rudra Prayag.

        Come along with us to experience our Day 9 visit.

        Like they say in the US of A, 'Another Day - Another Dollar'. 

        Good morning! We could see the Sun peeking from behind the mountains, as we stole a look at it from our room's balcony. I couldn't resist taking a picture of this lovely sight so, let me start the day by sharing this lovely picture of sunrise. 

                           

        We started to our next destination on our itinerary, the Baghnath Temple around 60 km from here. It is said that Lord Shiva appeared in front of Sage Markhandeya in the form of a Tiger and hence the name Bagh (Wagh – Tiger). Baghnath Temple is an ancient shrine dedicated to Shiva, situated in Bageshwar City at the confluence of the Sarayu and Gomati rivers. Baghnath Temple is festooned with bells of all sizes and features impressive carvings. It is the most famous Temple in Bageshwar District. This temple was erected by the Kumaun King, Laxmi Chand, about 1450 A.D., but there is an interesting Sanskrit inscription here of a far earlier date. The temple is flooded with devotees on the annual occasion of Shivratri. This place has a cluster of temples. In 1996, the Archeology department of Uttarakhand state took over the temple, following which, several inscriptions and idols from the eighth to the tenth century were sealed inside the temples. These include idols of Shiva, Ganesha, Vishnu, Chaturmukhi Shiva, Teen Mukhi Shiva, Panch Mukhi Shiva, Mahishasura Mardini, Sahasra Shivalinga, Ganesh, Karthikeya, Panchdevapath, Navagraha etc.[1]

                  

                

               

                  
        Pictures of Abhisheka, Vastra Dhaarana and Aarati to Lord Shiva

              

                      

                      
        Various idols in Baghnath Temple - Notable is the Five-headed Shiva Linga and Brahmalingeshwara

        We performed abhisheka (as usual with water, milk, ghee and honey), wrapped Vastra and did the Aarati as well.

        We could see the confluence of rivers Gomati and Sarayu close by and Anil walked to this place to collect water from here. After that, we walked to the circle in the road that had Lord Shanideva Temple. 

        Behind this was a sweet and savoury shop that was preparing fresh jalebis. We couldn’t resist the temptation and helped ourselves generously. The crisp sweet jalebi, hot from the kadai, was a real treat to both our eyes and the tastebuds. While others had a treat of Pakodas and Bread Pakodas, due to my persistent cough and Suma Aunty being under the weather we excused ourselves from tasting these.

        Our next stop was Baijnath or Baidyanath Temple complex, around 20 km from Baghnath. The famous Baijnath Mandir (Lord Shiva) on the bank of the river Gomati, is said to have been built by the Kumaon Katyuri King in around 1150 A.D. and it was the Capital of the Katyuri dynasty of kings who ruled Uttaranchal during the 12th and 13th century, Baijnath was once known as Kartikyapura. One of the most important places to visit in Baijnath is the historically and religiously significant Baijnath Temple constructed in the twelfth century. The temple holds significance because, according to Hindu mythology, Lord Shiva and Parvati were married at the confluence of River Gomati and Garur Ganga. Dedicated to SivaVaidyanatha, the Lord of Physicians, the Baijnath temple is actually a temple complex built by the Katyuri Kings with the idols of Shiva, Ganesh, Parvati, Chandika, Kuber, Surya and Brahma. Also, the town of Baijnath draws its name from the temple. Situated on the left bank of the Gomti River, the main temple houses a beautiful idol of Parvati, chiseled in black stone[2]

        I meditated in the sanctum for some time and could feel the powerful positive energy. As in most ASI-managed temples, photography is not allowed inside the sanctum. 

                  
                            Baijnath Temple in the complex                                Dwarkanath, Sumithra, 
                                                                                                                    Radha and yours truly

        A short walk under a km on the opposite side of the road, through the fields, brought us to another set of three temples, said to have been built in a single night by the Katyuri King. We were surprised to see that Satyanarayana Temple had no Gopura. 

        We had to request at the priest’s house to get the keys to Lord Satyanarayana's Temple to offer pooja (our ritual as in other places). The priest's wife was kind enough to accompany us and open the temple, for our prayers.

        We were told that the other two temples (Lakshmi Narayana and Kshetrapal) were complete, but the Gopura of Satyanarayana temple could not be completed before daybreak and hence is incomplete. Only limestone mixed with urad dal paste was used to bind the stones of this temple as has been used in many other temples across Uttarakhand.

                  

                      

                     

        Lord Satyanarayana and the intricate carvings on both sides of His idol

        The temple’s idol has rich carvings and even the Shanka (Conch) in the left hand of the Lord has intricate carvings. There was a theft at one of the temples and after that, the idols of Lakshmi Narayana were moved to a museum. The priest’s wife mentioned that a huge serpent in the temple is guarding the deity and temple's contents and few other people have seen this huge reptile too.  

        The fields were planted with fenugreek, mustard, wheat and radish. It was a feast for the eyes to see the greenery.

        We, the menfolk had a late lunch at a roadside dhaba while the womenfolk had uppittu. We reached Rudra Prayag, a distance of around 120 km, by evening 17h30 and Anil scouted again for accommodation for his pravachana tour in 2025. We had tea in the meanwhile and off we went to the 10 Battalion Hotel for our night stay. This would be the last night in the hills for us, as we were to make our way down to the plains in the morning. We had a dinner of rice and saaru, with curds that saw us through.


        Plan vs. Actual:

        Visited Baghnath, Baijnath and Sathyanarayana Temple as planned for today and the night halt at Rudra Prayag.

        ----------------------------------------

        Camp coordinates: Hotel 10 Battalion Address: near Indian oil petrol pump, Raintoli, Uttarakhand 246171             Phone: 089795 55514

        https://maps.app.goo.gl/narxg6w2Tx2Le7zb6

        -----------------------------------------

        Continued .... in Part 10


        [1] From the website https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bagnath_Temple
        [2] From the website https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baijnath,_Uttarakhand

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