An account of our trip to Nepal - Day 3

Day 3: 6th April 2026

The morning began with a story as old as creation itself: Sri Varaha, the boar incarnation of Vishnu, who lifted the earth from the abyss after slaying the demon Hiranyaksha. Standing at Varaha Kshetra, one could almost feel the myth breathing through the stones and the river.

Before temple bells, there was river water. We huddled down the hundred steps to the Koshi, each of us bracing for the chill. But the river surprised us – gentle, not icy, welcoming rather than daunting. A few dips later, I felt renewed, as though the fatigue of two days had been washed away.

A view of the River Koshi

    

           

Ancient idols of the Deities in Varaha Kshetra with Suma's creation of bead garlands

       

The original stone that came along with Sri Varaha & Idols of Maha Saraswati, Maha Lakshmi, and Maha Kali

And speaking of fatigue – credit goes to Vasu. That morning, before the river, he treated me to a back-body massage, blending Ayurveda, Marma Chikitsa, and sheer intuition. My aches dissolved under his hands. A versatile operator indeed, and his lifesaving skills would reveal themselves later in the journey.

        

Stair leading to the River Koshi

Climbing back up the steps, I passed fellow pilgrims descending, each carrying anticipation in their eyes. At the temple, Suma was already in conversation with the priest, orchestrating puja, naivedya, and aarti. Soon, the abhisheka began, with offerings she had painstakingly carried. The morning aarti followed, reverent and powerful, as our group joined in chanting the Vishnusahasranama. The prayer rose: “Sarve Janaah Sukhino Bhavanthu” – may all beings be happy.

Security was tight here, and rightly so. The temple complex houses ancient idols of Varaha and other deities, treasures of faith and history. Entry at night had been restricted, allowed only after our hotel confirmed our stay.

Breakfast brought novelty: Seel Roti, a local delicacy – large rings of coarsely ground rice, deep-fried to crisp perfection – paired with a curry of potatoes and lentils. A welcome break from our routine fare. Lunch was prearranged pulao, packed with salads, curds, and chutney, ready for the road.

Varaha Kshetra, one of Nepal’s Chaar Dhaams, held more secrets. Just a couple of kilometers away lay a cave where Varaha is said to have performed penance after lifting the earth. Time, however, was our stern taskmaster, and we had to forgo the detour.

Bhoo Devi Temple, from where one can descend to Sri Varaha Cave

The road ahead stretched long – 380 km to Bharatpur, nearly eight hours of travel. Midway, we paused for tea and unpacked our lunch. The rhythm of the journey was simple: drive, break, sip, laugh, repeat.

By late night, we reached Kushi Lodge and Home Stay. Dinner was self-prepared – upma, bisi bele bath, and other ready mixes, comfort food after a taxing ride. The lodge itself was modest but warm. The owner’s family lived in one section, while our rooms were tucked away in another, with even an empty godown attached. The host bent over backwards to accommodate us, and the night’s rest was comfortable.

Day 3 had been a blend of myth and muscle – Varaha’s legend, river’s embrace, Vasu’s healing touch, and the long road to Bharatpur. Each step, each chant, each bite of Seel Roti stitched another thread into the tapestry of our pilgrimage.