Days 5 & 6: 03/08 & 04/08/2025 – Restful Day while Tunganath Beckons:
Change in Itinerary and a Rest Day
Originally, we had planned to reach Gauri Kund, en route to Kedarnath, today. Instead, we reached Chopta and spent the whole day resting. Our Chef Radha and Sous Chef Sujata dished out tasty ubiquitous pulav. Oh! We had bought some veggies as we normally do on such trips.
Kedarnath was still closed due to landslides, and my brother, Vasu, informed me that a cousin of his friend was still stuck in Kedarnath.
A word about our Kedarnath Trip:
In all earnest, we had planned our itinerary to include the helicopter ride to Kedarnath on the 3rd August, and with an overnight stay there, to return by chopper the next morning, and thereafter move to our next trek - Madhya Maheshwar.
However, destiny made its move, and the chopper services were suspended and remain so, till 1st September, as there were 4 chopper crashes in 40 days. Coupled with this, landslides and the closure of roads between Sonprayag and Gaurikund, the main route to the Kedarnath trek, had been closed. Many tourists were stranded at Kedarnath and couldn't return.
There goes our chance to visit Kedarnath this time, as nature struck a very hard blow to us.
Arun had arranged our accommodation
at The Chopta House, which was quite comfortable, amidst beautiful scenic mountains, and since there were no other guests due to the off-season, we had exclusivity here.
Chopta House, like many others in this area of Chopta, is an eco-friendly hotel with no traditional electricity and relies on Solar power for lighting and gas-powered geysers.
Tunganath Beckons
The next morning, we set out for Tunganath, one of the revered Pancha Kedars, accessible only by trek or mule. Having learned from our experience with Rudranath, we opted for mules to ascend and planned to trek down. Radha and Sujata, however, chose to hike both ways.
Trek Snapshot
| Route | Distance | Elevation Gain | Duration | Difficulty | Height |
|----------------|----------|----------------|----------|------------|-------------|
| Base to Temple | 3.5 km | 3,300 ft | 2–3 hrs | Moderate | 12,073 ft |
Suma, Vidya, and I saddled up at the base camp. My sore
muscles left me little room for debate. The gear this time was far superior to
what we’d endured en route to Rudranath — padded handles, sturdy and
comfortable saddles, and handlers who inspired trust.
The ride came with its own economics: riders over 80 kg pay extra (₹300 one way, ₹500 round trip); standard fares stood at ₹900 and ₹1,300. The mules/handlers will wait for an hour after reaching the destination at the top, for your return journey. My handler, concerned for his mule’s load, double-checked my weight before we continued.
On the Way Up
The day was cool, with misty veils sweeping across the
slopes and a gentle drizzle now and then. The path was a delight – smooth,
steady, and worlds apart from Rudranath’s bone-jarring trail.
At the halfway tea stall, we paused. Our request for custom-brewed tea was politely declined, but the sight of young couples, some with babies in arms, cheerfully trekking uphill, warmed the moment more than any beverage.
The Final Stretch
After forty minutes, the mules halted at their allowed
limit. From there, the climb was ours — steep steps, flanked by small shops,
selling souvenirs, pooja items, etc. At the temple precinct, I fetched fresh
mountain water for abhisheka. The sanctum of Lord Tunganath, the third
Kedar, welcomed us in its quiet, ancient embrace. By the time we stepped back
into the mountain air, from the sanctum sanctorum, Radha and Sujata had arrived for their darshana.
Tunganath (The Lord of Mountain Peaks) represents the Chest Part of Lord Shiva.
Around the main shrine, statues of Maa Parvati, Veerabhadra, and other deities stood sentinel. A temple official diligently recorded pilgrim numbers, though the system seemed partial at best.
Darshan ticked off, we went back to the thela where we had left our footwear and ponchos. Our stomachs were looking towards heaven to see if anything was coming down to them. 😋 The chef was making parathas at this thela, and we couldn't resist it. We sat down, savouring the best of the parathas in the tour so far. A group of local women gave us company as we chatted a while before bidding farewell and resumed our downward trek.
Chandrashila, the peak of this place, is another 1.5 km climb from the Tunganath temple. It takes between 1 to 2 hours for this trek. The altitude climb is about 1,350 ft in this short distance, making the trek a difficult one as the trail is steep and requires some physical stamina. Chandrashila is the highest point in Uttarakhand. It is said to have mesmerising 360° views of the majestic Himalayan peaks of Kedarnath, Trishul, Chaukhamba, and Nanda Devi.
That said, we couldn’t venture to trek there due to inclement weather and poor visibility.
Downhill Joy & Onward Roads
After capturing a few photos, we began our descent around noon. The downhill trek was a delight—almost enough to erase memories of our Rudranath ordeal. We reached the base camp in just over two hours, rain-soaked but content. We reached Chopta House, packed up, and aimed for Ransi, the base of the Madhya Maheshwar trek.
By now, I’d had enough of trekking shoes; wearing sandals brought
instant relief.
Ukhi Math – A Brief Pause
On the way, we stopped at Ukhi Math town, where Suma and I
bought new footwear – costly due to mountain surcharge pricing, but understandable given the location. I realized
later that I’d left my cap at the shop, hoping to retrieve it on our return.
Ukhi Math town is the home to Omkareshwar Temple, which is
the place where the deities of Kedarnath and Madhya Maheshwar reside during
winter closures. We planned to visit it on our way back.
The drive through the mountain passes was scenic yet demanding. A number of places where the mountain streams flow across the concrete roads require skilled driving. Mukesh, our driver, handled the terrain with remarkable patience and skill.
An Evening in Ransi
We reached Ransi before sunset and settled into Holiday
Hills Home Stay. Clothes dripped dry on the balcony as hot tea chased away
the chill. Dinner was a humble but satisfying mix of parathas, rice, and dal.
Later, a conversation with Sourabh – a solo motorbike trekker from Punjab – brought sobering news. The Madhya Maheshwar trail ahead was compromised: a collapsed bridge, a precarious trolley over a gorge, and rain-eaten paths. For our senior group, it was too risky.
Madhya Maheshwar represents the Stomach part of Lord Shiva.
After a long discussion, we bowed to caution and called off the trek, planned for the next morning.
Synopsis of the two days:
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