An account of our trip to Nepal - Day 4

Day 4: 7th April 2026

The morning began with routine efficiency – breakfast, luggage reloaded, and once again we boarded our rides after taking a few pics with the owner. The road ahead was a mid-distance journey of 130 km, about three hours, leading us to Pokhara, a city cradled by mountains and myths.

Our Group

Sridhar, Ravi, Suma, Yours Truly, Vasu, Srivatsa, Vimla, Nagendra, Nandini & Sribhargav

Our destination was the famed Bindvasini Temple, perched atop a hillock. The climb was modest – under 100 steps – but for those less inclined, an elevator stood ready, charging a small fee for convenience. At the summit, devotion met grandeur. The temple precincts housed not only Maa Bindvasini but also a towering Shiva temple, guarded by a bronze Nandi. Inside, the Ashta Chiranjeevis, the Navagrahas, and other deities watched silently. Opposite stood a smaller complex with idols of Sita-Rama, Lakshmi-Narayana, and Radha-Krishna, each shrine a chapter in the epic of faith.

        

Complex of 3 pairs of deities                                 Bindvasni Temple

            

           The Bronze Nandi opposite Shiva Temple                              Sita-Ram

    

Radha-Krishna                                     Lakshmi-Narayana

From the hillock, the view was breathtaking. Snow-capped peaks shimmered on the horizon, their majesty framed by the warmth of the valley below. For a moment, silence reigned among us – eyes feasting, hearts humbled.

     

View from the hillock

Descending reluctantly, we boarded a local ride – a 10-seater electric vehicle, surprisingly powerful. This EV would be our companion for the next two days until Baglung. Our vehicles were stopped from going further towards Muktinath due to some local politics of the cartel. Suma and I, seasoned in foresight, had packed two days’ clothing into backpacks, leaving our main luggage behind. Others, ignoring our advice, hauled their entire baggage onto the EV and soon regretted it.

Negotiations for advance payment consumed nearly an hour, roasting us in the midday heat inside the vehicle. Finally, around 2:00 pm, we set off toward Kagbeni, 165 km north of Pokhara, a 4½-hour drive.

Barely a few kilometers in, the skies opened. Rain poured, and those who had stashed luggage atop the vehicle now fretted, tarpaulin or not. A roadside shack offered respite. Lunch orders varied – noodles for some, Seel Rotis for others – while Suma and I, ever prepared, devoured our pre-packed meal. Tea warmed us before we resumed.

The road to Kagbeni was unforgiving – potholes, stretches without tarred surfaces, and rugged terrain. Yet the EV impressed, gliding through with resilience. Nepal’s embrace of electric mobility was evident; charging stations dotted even remote corners. We stopped for a recharge – NR 20 per percentage of battery, our EV was fully charged in 40 minutes. Snacks filled the wait.

Then came a moment of drama. One lady, who had indulged in noodles, developed gastric distress. Enter Vasu, our healer. With acupressure and marma chikitsa, he worked his magic. Burps punctuated the treatment, and within ten minutes, she was restored. We watched in awe – science and spirituality converging in his hands.

Through drizzle and unmanned check-posts, we pressed on. Kagbeni awaited, not just as a destination but as a sacred rendezvous. Here, rituals for departed family members were to be performed, guided by a local pundit. Our plan had been to arrive by 3:00 pm, but delays pushed the rites to the next day, after visiting Muktinath.

By 9:00 pm, we reached Hotel Nilgiris. Those with luggage atop the vehicle cursed their fate, drying clothes with hair dryers and irons. Dinner, however, redeemed the day. Preordered Gobi Parathas, dal, and curds, prepared by host Pema and her team, turned into a feast. Perhaps the best meal of the trip, capped with masala tea. Satisfaction echoed in burps, laughter, and weary smiles.

Day 4 had been a tapestry of contrasts – majestic peaks and muddy roads, EV technology and ancient rituals, rain-soaked luggage and soul-soothing food. Kagbeni had welcomed us with trials and triumphs, setting the stage for the sacred rites and the ascent to Muktinath.