Day 2: 5th April 2026
The dawn of our second day carried with it a sense of
reverence. We set out to Purana Dham, the ancient site where legend says
King Janaka unearthed Sita from a pot while ploughing the famine-stricken
fields. Imagine the scene: a king, desperate to save his people, performing
penance with sweat and soil – and destiny itself rising from the earth in the
form of a child. Today, the site is a pond (and we performed pooja there), flanked by a temple adorned with idols of Rama, Lakshmana, Sita,
Lakshmi, Narayana, Shiva, and more.

As tradition demanded, Suma stepped forward with offerings –
bead garlands, vastras, naivedya, and aarti – her devotion setting the tone for
the day.
From there, we moved to Janki Sthal, the grander
temple complex, often debated as Sita’s true birthplace. The air here was thick
with history and dispute, but also with devotion. Idols of Ganesh, Hanuman,
Radha-Krishna, Ram-Lakshman-Sita, and Garuda watched over us. The priest urged
us to stay for the morning aarti, and we did. The chants, the bells, the rising
incense – it was a symphony of faith. The prasad, though modest in portion, was
rich in spirit, enough to whet our appetite for breakfast.



Back at the hotel, roadside masala tea revived us while Rajneesh and Kamlesh, our ever-faithful charioteers, loaded the luggage. A small travel tip emerged from experience: keep a backpack with two days’ worth of clothes handy, so the big suitcase can rest undisturbed.
Breakfast was self-prepared – khichadi, quinoa khichadi,
bisi bele bath, and upma. Simple, hearty, and comforting.
By mid-morning, we reached the border checkpoint. Permits
were secured for our vehicles, granting us seven days of passage into Nepal.
The sun was already blazing as we entered Janakpuri, another contested
site of Sita’s birth. Amidst the heat, Sridhar or Vasu (memory blurs here)
played the role of a good Samaritan, treating us all to chilled lassi. A blessing
in disguise!
Then came the jewel: Janaki Temple, also called Naulakha
Mandir. Built in the early 1900s by Queen Vrisha Bhanu of Orchha, it cost
nine lakh gold coins – a fortune turned into devotion. Legends abound: a golden
statue of Sita discovered in 1657, the holy site where Sannyasi Shurkishordas
found her images.
The sanctum was closed until 4:00 pm, so we wandered. A marriage was underway in one corner, bhajans echoed in another, and young girls filmed TikTok dances in yet another – modernity and tradition colliding in the temple courtyard. We explored the animated Ramayan exhibition, walls alive with Mithila art narrating Sita’s story.
By then, hunger roared. Hotel Ramayan Misthan came to
the rescue with a vegetarian feast.
When the sanctum finally opened, the crowd surged. Students
on holiday had swelled the numbers, and chants of “Jai Sita Ram!” filled
the air. Amidst the melee, we glimpsed the idols, resplendent in opulence. From
there, we visited the nearby Ram temple, its pagoda-like structure reminiscent
of Tibetan Buddhist architecture, housing idols as ancient as the stones
themselves.
The evening carried us to Dhanush Dham, 20 km northeast.
A massive bow spanned the highway, a reminder of the legend: Rama stringing
Shiva’s bow at Sita’s swayamvara, the bow shattering into three parts. The
middle fragment is said to have landed here, leaving behind mysterious elements
that even scientists failed to identify. Mysticism and science stood side by
side, shrugging at each other.


Villagers sold cucumbers and wood that burned like camphor,
its shavings fragrant like incense. We bought some souvenirs of faith and
earth.
Finally, under the night sky, we reached Varaha Kshetra
at 10:30 pm. Suma had wisely chosen the Bhandari Shakhahari Hotel, close to
the temple and the river Koshi. Beds claimed, bodies weary, spirits full – we
surrendered to sleep once more.
