An account of our trip to Nepal - Day 5

Day 5: 8th April 2026

The morning air bit into our skin – temperatures hovering in the low single digits – as we set out for Muktinath, perched nearly 3,000 feet above Kagbeni’s altitude of 9,200 ft. Oxygen levels here were barely 70% of sea level, and every breath reminded us that we were guests in the Himalayas. Snow-capped peaks framed the horizon, silent witnesses to our climb.

  

        

 A view of the River Kali Gandaki from our balcony at Kagbeni

The ascent was deliberate: 300 steps, carefully engineered to ease the burden of pilgrims. For those unable to climb, dolis carried by bearers and mules offered alternatives. But we chose the steps, each one a heartbeat closer to salvation.

      

           Entrance to the 300-odd steps                          Snow freckled environs

At the summit, snowflakes began to fall, soft at first, then gathering strength. Frenzied devotees rushed to the 108 water spouts (Muktidhara), fed by the icy Kali Gandaki River. Cow-headed spouts lined in a semicircle poured freezing torrents, and tradition demanded immersion. First, a dip in the twin ponds opposite the temple, then a shower under the spouts.

              108 spouts pouring ice-cold water                         The two ponds in the foreground

Stripping down to boxers, Ravi and I braved the ritual. We dashed under the spouts, gasping as the icy water struck, then plunged into the ponds. Suma, ever the guardian of tradition, reminded us of the correct order – ponds first, spouts after. So, back we went. Action replay. Double whammy. Snow intensified, but so did our resolve.

Nagendra, our co-traveler who had lost both legs below the knees in a tragic accident, was carried through the ritual by his friend Srivatsa. His courage lit up the group – proof that faith conquers physical limits.

The queue for darshan stretched serpentine, nearly 30 minutes to reach the sanctum. Inside, the copper idol of Sri Muktinath Vishnu, seated in padmasana, radiated serenity. Revered by Hindus as the Lord of Salvation and by Buddhists as a sacred site, it was a rare confluence of faiths. Performing aarti here felt like touching eternity.

Lord Muktinath (an old picture, as photography is prohibited now)

Nearby, the giant Buddha statue stood sentinel, visible from the walking track. And then, the marvel of Jwala Mai – the Eternal Flame. Natural gas seeped through rock, burning continuously on water, a mystical union of fire and water, symbolizing the five elements.

Descending was harder than climbing. Snow thickened, umbrellas opened, and we sought shelter in shacks. At -1°C, hot tea became nectar. But the day’s drama was only beginning.

An elderly lady at the next table collapsed into a cold attack. Mistaken camphor (actually naphthalene balls!) shocked us, but Vasu sprang into action – rubbing the soles of her feet, generating heat, and reviving her with hot water. Relief washed over us. Moments later, a teenage girl suffered the same fate. Another rescue, another sigh of relief.

But providence wasn’t done. One of our group ladies convulsed – lockjaw, bleeding from her tongue, oxygen levels plummeting. Panic gripped us. Her husband prayed desperately, while an insensitive onlooker tried filming the ordeal. Suma, furious, slapped the phone out of his hands – a moment of righteous rage.

The doctor arrived, but the oxygen cylinder was empty. Another center’s cylinder – also empty. Tension peaked. An injection stabilized her, and finally, an oxygen generator brought relief. Her blood sugar was dangerously high, compounded by inadequate clothing against the cold. The doctor advised immediate transfer to Jomsom Hospital.

Finding a taxi was another ordeal. Time stretched painfully until one arrived. She was rushed to Jomsom, accompanied by group members. The rest of us packed hurriedly, lunch hastily served by Pema, and we followed. We had to forego performing the rites for our departed members of our families due to the fiasco. Man Proposes, God Disposes!

At Jomsom Hospital, oxygen revived her. After hours of monitoring, she was discharged with strict instructions: oxygen support until reaching a lower altitude and follow-up in Baglung. Santosh, our charioteer, became guardian of the oxygen flow.

Late at night, we reached Baglung, checked into Hotel Peace Heaven, and sent her straight to the hospital. Dinner – simple rice and dal – waited, but our appetite was for good news. When the companions returned – bringing her back, with word that she was stable – relief swept through us. Gratitude replaced exhaustion. We hit the bed, hearts heavy with the day’s trials, yet thankful for divine grace.

A word of caution to the travellers visiting Muktinath in particular, and high altitude places in general:

Don't forget to carry camphor and an Oxymeter. Drink plenty of water and take necessary precautions if you have high blood pressure and/or diabetes.

---

Day 5 was a theatrical crescendo – snow, sacred rituals, near tragedies, and miraculous rescues. It carried the weight of myth and the fragility of human life, reminding us that pilgrimage is not just about reaching temples, but about surviving the journey with faith, courage, and compassion.

An account of our trip to Nepal - Day 4

Day 4: 7th April 2026

The morning began with routine efficiency – breakfast, luggage reloaded, and once again we boarded our rides after taking a few pics with the owner. The road ahead was a mid-distance journey of 130 km, about three hours, leading us to Pokhara, a city cradled by mountains and myths.

Our Group

Sridhar, Ravi, Suma, Yours Truly, Vasu, Srivatsa, Vimla, Nagendra, Nandini & Sribhargav

Our destination was the famed Bindvasini Temple, perched atop a hillock. The climb was modest – under 100 steps – but for those less inclined, an elevator stood ready, charging a small fee for convenience. At the summit, devotion met grandeur. The temple precincts housed not only Maa Bindvasini but also a towering Shiva temple, guarded by a bronze Nandi. Inside, the Ashta Chiranjeevis, the Navagrahas, and other deities watched silently. Opposite stood a smaller complex with idols of Sita-Rama, Lakshmi-Narayana, and Radha-Krishna, each shrine a chapter in the epic of faith.

        

Complex of 3 pairs of deities                                 Bindvasni Temple

            

           The Bronze Nandi opposite Shiva Temple                              Sita-Ram

    

Radha-Krishna                                     Lakshmi-Narayana

From the hillock, the view was breathtaking. Snow-capped peaks shimmered on the horizon, their majesty framed by the warmth of the valley below. For a moment, silence reigned among us – eyes feasting, hearts humbled.

     

View from the hillock

Descending reluctantly, we boarded a local ride – a 10-seater electric vehicle, surprisingly powerful. This EV would be our companion for the next two days until Baglung. Our vehicles were stopped from going further towards Muktinath due to some local politics of the cartel. Suma and I, seasoned in foresight, had packed two days’ clothing into backpacks, leaving our main luggage behind. Others, ignoring our advice, hauled their entire baggage onto the EV and soon regretted it.

Negotiations for advance payment consumed nearly an hour, roasting us in the midday heat inside the vehicle. Finally, around 2:00 pm, we set off toward Kagbeni, 165 km north of Pokhara, a 4½-hour drive.

Barely a few kilometers in, the skies opened. Rain poured, and those who had stashed luggage atop the vehicle now fretted, tarpaulin or not. A roadside shack offered respite. Lunch orders varied – noodles for some, Seel Rotis for others – while Suma and I, ever prepared, devoured our pre-packed meal. Tea warmed us before we resumed.

The road to Kagbeni was unforgiving – potholes, stretches without tarred surfaces, and rugged terrain. Yet the EV impressed, gliding through with resilience. Nepal’s embrace of electric mobility was evident; charging stations dotted even remote corners. We stopped for a recharge – NR 20 per percentage of battery, our EV was fully charged in 40 minutes. Snacks filled the wait.

Then came a moment of drama. One lady, who had indulged in noodles, developed gastric distress. Enter Vasu, our healer. With acupressure and marma chikitsa, he worked his magic. Burps punctuated the treatment, and within ten minutes, she was restored. We watched in awe – science and spirituality converging in his hands.

Through drizzle and unmanned check-posts, we pressed on. Kagbeni awaited, not just as a destination but as a sacred rendezvous. Here, rituals for departed family members were to be performed, guided by a local pundit. Our plan had been to arrive by 3:00 pm, but delays pushed the rites to the next day, after visiting Muktinath.

By 9:00 pm, we reached Hotel Nilgiris. Those with luggage atop the vehicle cursed their fate, drying clothes with hair dryers and irons. Dinner, however, redeemed the day. Preordered Gobi Parathas, dal, and curds, prepared by host Pema and her team, turned into a feast. Perhaps the best meal of the trip, capped with masala tea. Satisfaction echoed in burps, laughter, and weary smiles.

An account of our trip to Nepal - Day 3

Day 3: 6th April 2026

The morning began with a story as old as creation itself: Sri Varaha, the boar incarnation of Vishnu, who lifted the earth from the abyss after slaying the demon Hiranyaksha. Standing at Varaha Kshetra, one could almost feel the myth breathing through the stones and the river.

Before temple bells, there was river water. We huddled down the hundred steps to the Koshi, each of us bracing for the chill. But the river surprised us – gentle, not icy, welcoming rather than daunting. A few dips later, I felt renewed, as though the fatigue of two days had been washed away.

A view of the River Koshi

    

           

Ancient idols of the Deities in Varaha Kshetra with Suma's creation of bead garlands

       

The original stone that came along with Sri Varaha & Idols of Maha Saraswati, Maha Lakshmi, and Maha Kali

And speaking of fatigue – credit goes to Vasu. That morning, before the river, he treated me to a back-body massage, blending Ayurveda, Marma Chikitsa, and sheer intuition. My aches dissolved under his hands. A versatile operator indeed, and his lifesaving skills would reveal themselves later in the journey.

        

Stair leading to the River Koshi

Climbing back up the steps, I passed fellow pilgrims descending, each carrying anticipation in their eyes. At the temple, Suma was already in conversation with the priest, orchestrating puja, naivedya, and aarti. Soon, the abhisheka began, with offerings she had painstakingly carried. The morning aarti followed, reverent and powerful, as our group joined in chanting the Vishnusahasranama. The prayer rose: “Sarve Janaah Sukhino Bhavanthu” – may all beings be happy.

Security was tight here, and rightly so. The temple complex houses ancient idols of Varaha and other deities, treasures of faith and history. Entry at night had been restricted, allowed only after our hotel confirmed our stay.

Breakfast brought novelty: Seel Roti, a local delicacy – large rings of coarsely ground rice, deep-fried to crisp perfection – paired with a curry of potatoes and lentils. A welcome break from our routine fare. Lunch was prearranged pulao, packed with salads, curds, and chutney, ready for the road.

Varaha Kshetra, one of Nepal’s Chaar Dhaams, held more secrets. Just a couple of kilometers away lay a cave where Varaha is said to have performed penance after lifting the earth. Time, however, was our stern taskmaster, and we had to forgo the detour.

Bhoo Devi Temple, from where one can descend to Sri Varaha Cave

The road ahead stretched long – 380 km to Bharatpur, nearly eight hours of travel. Midway, we paused for tea and unpacked our lunch. The rhythm of the journey was simple: drive, break, sip, laugh, repeat.

By late night, we reached Kushi Lodge and Home Stay. Dinner was self-prepared – upma, bisi bele bath, and other ready mixes, comfort food after a taxing ride. The lodge itself was modest but warm. The owner’s family lived in one section, while our rooms were tucked away in another, with even an empty godown attached. The host bent over backwards to accommodate us, and the night’s rest was comfortable.

Day 3 had been a blend of myth and muscle – Varaha’s legend, river’s embrace, Vasu’s healing touch, and the long road to Bharatpur. Each step, each chant, each bite of Seel Roti stitched another thread into the tapestry of our pilgrimage.

An account of our visit to Nepal - Day 2

 Day 2: 5th April 2026

The dawn of our second day carried with it a sense of reverence. We set out to Punaura Dham, the ancient site where legend says King Janaka unearthed Sita from a pot while ploughing the famine-stricken fields. Imagine the scene: a king, desperate to save his people, performing penance with sweat and soil – and destiny itself rising from the earth in the form of a child. Today, the site is a pond (and we performed pooja there), flanked by a temple adorned with idols of Rama, Lakshmana, Sita, Lakshmi, Narayana, Shiva, and more.

       

Deities in the temple

Pond where Sita was found by Janaka

As tradition demanded, Suma stepped forward with offerings – bead garlands, vastras, naivedya, and aarti – her devotion setting the tone for the day.

From there, we moved to Janki Sthal, the grander temple complex, often debated as Sita’s true birthplace. The air here was thick with history and dispute, but also with devotion. Idols of Ganesh, Hanuman, Radha-Krishna, Ram-Lakshman-Sita, and Garuda watched over us. The priest urged us to stay for the morning aarti, and we did. The chants, the bells, the rising incense – it was a symphony of faith. The prasad, though modest in portion, was rich in spirit, enough to whet our appetite for breakfast.

             

      

       

Some of the Deities at the Janki Sthal

Back at the hotel, roadside masala tea revived us while Rajneesh and Kamlesh, our ever-faithful charioteers, loaded the luggage. A small travel tip emerged from experience: keep a backpack with two days’ worth of clothes handy, so the big suitcase can rest undisturbed.

Breakfast was self-prepared – khichadi, quinoa khichadi, bisi bele bath, and upma. Simple, hearty, and comforting.

By mid-morning, we reached the border checkpoint. Permits were secured for our vehicles, granting us seven days of passage into Nepal. The sun was already blazing as we entered Janakpuri, another contested site of Sita’s birth. Amidst the heat, Sridhar or Vasu (memory blurs here) played the role of a good Samaritan, treating us all to chilled lassi. A blessing in disguise!

Then came the jewel: Janaki Temple, also called Naulakha Mandir. Built in the early 1900s by Queen Vrisha Bhanu of Orchha, it cost nine lakh gold coins – a fortune turned into devotion. Legends abound: a golden statue of Sita discovered in 1657, the holy site where Sannyasi Shurkishordas found her images.

     

    

        

Few pics at Janki Temple, Janakpuri

The sanctum was closed until 4:00 pm, so we wandered. A marriage was underway in one corner, bhajans echoed in another, and young girls filmed TikTok dances in yet another – modernity and tradition colliding in the temple courtyard. We explored the animated Ramayan exhibition, walls alive with Mithila art narrating Sita’s story.

By then, hunger roared. Hotel Ramayan Misthan came to the rescue with a vegetarian feast.

When the sanctum finally opened, the crowd surged. Students on holiday had swelled the numbers, and chants of “Jai Sita Ram!” filled the air. Amidst the melee, we glimpsed the idols, resplendent in opulence. From there, we visited the nearby Ram temple, its pagoda-like structure reminiscent of Tibetan Buddhist architecture, housing idols as ancient as the stones themselves.

         

A view of the deities in the Ram Temple and the precincts 

The evening carried us to Dhanush Dham, 20 km northeast. A massive bow spanned the highway, a reminder of the legend: Rama stringing Shiva’s bow at Sita’s swayamvara, the bow shattering into three parts. The middle fragment is said to have landed here, leaving behind mysterious elements that even scientists failed to identify. Mysticism and science stood side by side, shrugging at each other.

         

        

Pics of what is believed to be parts of Shiv Dhanush

    

      

Villagers sold cucumbers and wood that burned like camphor, its shavings fragrant like incense. We bought some souvenirs of faith and earth.

Finally, under the night sky, we reached Varaha Kshetra at 10:30 pm. Suma had wisely chosen the Bhandari Shakhahari Hotel, close to the temple and the river Koshi. Beds claimed, bodies weary, spirits full – we surrendered to sleep once more.