Day 4: 02/08/2025 – An Adventure Worth Remembering:
A Morning of Magic and Mountains
Waking up at 5:15 AM, it appeared that our fatigue from the previous day had vanished without a trace. As we came out to a breathtaking sight - the sun rising over a horizon lined with snow-capped peaks and welcomed by the flawlessly azure, cloudless, and serene sky. We felt that the pains we underwent during the previous day were worth the trouble to capture such a sight in our natural, gigapixel cameras. We also captured the magic on our phones, each frame a tribute to the Sun God who seemed to smile down on us. With the warmth of the morning light, we took the chance to dry all of our damp clothes from the previous day.
Journey to Rudranath Temple
As we prepared for the temple visit, we gathered all the
essentials that Suma usually carries for such occasions. Approaching Rudranath,
we were awestruck by the temple’s entrance and its main structure, which jutted
dramatically from the mountainside rock, housing the sacred Sanctum Sanctorum. We couldn't see this properly the previous evening due to the darkness.
Rudranath represents the face and the neck part of Lord Shiva.
We took photos outside - photography inside the temple is strictly prohibited - both for our records and for our spirited team, “Teen Deviyan” (apologies to Radha, Sujata, and Vidya for the name!). Inside, we offered our prayers and handed over our offerings to the priest. A Sankalpa was performed in all our names for the abhisheka, though we couldn’t stay for the ritual due to time constraints.
Breakfast and Kindness
Back at camp, we enjoyed a hearty breakfast of aloo paratha and tea. The group we’d met the previous day was there too. One of them, whose shoes had given way, gratefully accepted Suma’s spare footwear for the return trek - a small act of kindness that meant a lot.
The Descent Begins
We began planning our descent. Radha, determined and
spirited, refused to ride her mule and joined a group of youngsters on foot.
Her mule was repurposed to carry our backpacks, allowing us to travel light.
Unfortunately, during the shuffle, we forgot to retain the essentials like torches and power banks - an
oversight that would haunt us later.
Radha’s group started at 8:00 AM, and we followed around
8:30. Though advised to use mules till Pannar, Suma and Vidya chose to dismount
at Pitrudhar, while Sujata and I rode on to Pannar. At Pitrudhar, we waited
nearly half an hour before spotting Suma and Vidya, who were visibly upset due
to issues with their mules and handlers. After a brief rest, they continued on foot.
A Scare and a Sigh of Relief
Sujata and I remounted and continued to Pannar. Upon
arrival, Bijay helped me dismount, but Sujata’s mule, Tikki, suddenly bolted
into the open meadow, giving us quite a scare. Bijay managed to rein her in,
and Sujata, especially, breathed a deep sigh of relief. Shaken and also stirred (apologies, Ian Fleming), we paused to calm our
nerves before continuing the trek downhill.
We were presumptuous in our thoughts of reaching the base camp by evening, and hence, we didn’t check for torches or power banks. My shoes, lacking proper grip, worried me—but they held up surprisingly well, and I didn’t slip once.
Nature, Chanting, and Camaraderie
As we started to descend, we could see and feel the actual impediments in the form of asymmetrical stones in the pathway. Climbing downhill is always treacherous and exhausting. Yet we paused often to admire vibrant alpine flora and sweeping mountain vistas. The rain had ceased, and bright skies lifted our spirits.
We picked up the pace since our legs were used to walking now. We could see a lot of enthusiastic youngsters climbing and chanting ‘Har Har Mahadev’, ‘Jai Bholenath’, and ‘Om Namah Shivay’, and we reciprocated. One memorable sight was a young girl carrying her adorable Maltese dog. A sweet moment amid the rugged terrain. Very cute!
Tea Breaks and Local Trekkers
We reached Lwinti Kharak and paused for tea, waiting for
Suma and Vidya to catch up. I had a small stick to guide me downhill, and we
bought one for Sujata, paying ₹50,
which helped us move faster.
The trail was bustling with locals, many of whom trek here
regularly over weekends. It was Saturday, and the crowd reflected the
popularity of this spiritual journey.
The Final Descent: A Test of Grit and Grace
Our descent began slowly, hampered by the rugged terrain and
my role as unofficial marshal of the group - sometimes leading, often lagging - to
ensure everyone felt safe. As the hours passed, we realized our phone batteries
were draining fast, and network signals were unreliable. By 3:00 PM, the
looming threat of rain and early darkness pushed us to hasten our pace as much
as the trail allowed.
Despite the urgency, we didn’t miss the chance to soak in
the beauty around us. The path, though scenic, was strewn with uneven stones
that slowed us down considerably. At times, it felt like we were moving at
barely one kilometer per hour. The absence of signboards and inaccurate
campsite information added to our confusion, and Google Maps was of little help
due to poor connectivity.
Vidya, struggling with knee pain, suggested calling the
police for assistance. I reached out to Radha, who had already made it to base
camp, and asked her to seek help. Frustrated by the lack of clarity, I urged
her to act quickly. With my phone battery down to 2%, I managed to get through
to the police control room and explained our situation in fragmented calls,
hoping they understood the gravity of our predicament.
Around 5:30 PM, just as despair began to set in, Bijay and a
few others arrived with mules. We were still 3 - 4 km from base camp. Vidya and
Sujata mounted the mules, but Suma, upset with the handlers’ attitude, refused
and walked away. I told Bijay I’d convince her and hurried after her. Near Pung
Kharak, I caught up and persuaded her to ride, reminding her of the late hour
and her recent slip on the trail.
Sujata had already left with Bijay and another mule, Kaali.
One handler asked me to wait at Pung Kharak for Bijay to return. After 20
minutes, impatience took over, and I resumed trekking. Another handler arrived
with a mule, but it bolted again. With darkness closing in, I conserved my
phone battery and pressed on.
On any other day, a solo trek through the forest would have
been a joy. But not now. As the light dimmed, Robert Frost’s lines echoed in my
mind:
But I have promises to keep,
And miles to go before I sleep.”
I fought off negative thoughts, prayed silently, and focused on the path. In that short span, I truly understood the weight of words like despair, loneliness, and helplessness.
A few hundred meters down, I reunited with Bijay - and to my
surprise, Sujata. She shared her ordeal: Vidya had nearly fainted from low
sugar or blood pressure and had to lie down. Sujata’s mule had returned with
mine, but hers had also run off. Seeing her again was a huge relief.
The three of us continued on foot. My phone was nearly dead,
and Bijay’s wasn’t far behind. We suggested he call for torches, but he said no
one would come now. At one point, Sujata sat down, exhausted. We heard dogs
barking and saw flashlights above us - hope surged. But it wasn’t a rescue team;
it was a group of trekkers and a Nepali couple descending.
They were heaven-sent. One of them offered his torch, and
the Nepali man offered to carry Sujata piggyback to base camp. I was hesitant,
but Sujata bravely accepted. I prayed for her safety as she disappeared into
the night.
With the borrowed torch, Bijay and I resumed our descent. He
estimated another two hours to base camp. Suddenly, we heard the jingle of mule
bells. In the dark, I got caught between them, and my hand was snagged in a
belt. I was dragged a few feet before I managed to free myself, landing hard on
my right side. My shoulder took the brunt, but thankfully, I wasn’t seriously
injured.
Eventually, Bijay found the mule, and I mounted it with
immense relief. Mules have remarkable night vision, and Bijay guided us with
his flashlight. After what felt like an eternity, we reached the familiar Check
Post. At a nearby shop, Sujata and the Nepali man were resting with the kind
trekkers. We didn’t stop - Sujata resumed her piggyback ride, and we pressed on.
Finally, at 8:30 PM, we reached base camp. Sujata had
arrived safely and thanked the Nepali man profusely. Officials from the Forest
and Police Departments were already there, gathering details. I was touched by
their swift response, triggered by my broken messages. The Inspector recorded
my statement, and I did my best to explain the situation while shielding the
mule handlers from blame. I later learned that even the local Tehsildar had
called to check on us.
I must commend the exemplary service of the Police and
Forest personnel, and especially Bijay, whose dedication went far beyond duty.
That night, we stayed in a homestay, had a simple dinner,
and took painkillers for our aching muscles. In my separate room, I called my
brother Vasu and recounted the entire saga. He had done this trek decades ago
and could relate to every twist and turn. I don’t remember when I fell
asleep - but I can say with certainty, it was the soundest sleep I’ve had in
years.
Reflections on Rudranath
In hindsight, seasoned trekkers confirmed that the Rudranath trek is best done over 2-3 days starting from Sagar base camp, with breaks at campsites - especially if you’re not using mules.
The trek from Sagar village, the popular starting point at around 2,200 meters (7,200 ft), to the Rudranath Temple involves a considerable elevation gain of about 1,400 (4,180 ft) to 3,600 meters (11,380 ft). This ascent is gradual but consistent, traversing diverse terrains, including dense forests, vibrant alpine meadows, and rocky paths. The elevation gain requires good physical fitness, stamina, and proper acclimatization.[2]
This trek is quite demanding as far as the physical fitness of the trekkers is concerned. Radha, a seasoned and avid trekker, said that this trek is one of the toughest and a bit heavy for beginners. Senior citizens are advised to exercise caution before embarking on this trek.
Fruits of labour, at the end of the trek up to Rudranath, are the lovely sights of snowcapped mountains, valleys, and wild flora, Rudranath Temple, Narada Kund, Saraswati Kund, lovely sunrise views, and perhaps a clear starry sky in the nights, fully justify the efforts of the trek.
Below is the trekking map of Rudranath, just for reference: [3]
So much for our first long trek to Rudranath - an unforgettable journey of faith, endurance, and camaraderie!
[1] From the website https: https://www.shutterstock.com/search/rudranath-trek
[2]
From the website https://www.poojn.in/post/19572/rudranath-trek-altitude-elevation-difficulty-guide
[3] https://www.euttaranchal.com/tourism/rudranath-photos.php
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