An attempt to visit Pancha Kedar and Pancha Badari! Days 5 & 6.

Days 5 & 6: 03/08 & 04/08/2025 – Restful Day while Tunganath Beckons: 

Change in Itinerary and a Rest Day

Originally, we had planned to reach Gauri Kund, en route to Kedarnath, today. Instead, we reached Chopta and spent the whole day resting. Our Chef Radha and Sous Chef Sujata dished out tasty ubiquitous pulav. Oh! We had bought some veggies as we normally do on such trips.

              

Chef Radha and Sous Chef Sujata with their creation! 

Kedarnath was still closed due to landslides, and my brother, Vasu, informed me that a cousin of his friend was still stuck in Kedarnath. 

A word about our Kedarnath Trip:

In all earnest, we had planned our itinerary to include the helicopter ride to Kedarnath on the 3rd August, and with an overnight stay there, to return by chopper the next morning, and thereafter move to our next trek - Madhya Maheshwar.

However, destiny made its move, and the chopper services were suspended and remain so, till 1st September, as there were 4 chopper crashes in 40 days. Coupled with this, landslides and the closure of roads between Sonprayag and Gaurikund, the main route to the Kedarnath trek, had been closed. Many tourists were stranded at Kedarnath and couldn't return. 

There goes our chance to visit Kedarnath this time, as nature struck a very hard blow to us. 

Arun had arranged our accommodation at The Chopta House, which was quite comfortable, amidst beautiful scenic mountains, and since there were no other guests due to the off-season, we had exclusivity here.

Chopta House, like many others in this area of Chopta, is an eco-friendly hotel with no traditional electricity and relies on Solar power for lighting and gas-powered geysers.  

          

      

Some of the views around Chopta House

Tunganath Beckons

The next morning, we set out for Tunganath, one of the revered Pancha Kedars, accessible only by trek or mule. Having learned from our experience with Rudranath, we opted for mules to ascend and planned to trek down. Radha and Sujata, however, chose to hike both ways.

Trek Snapshot

| Route | Distance | Elevation Gain | Duration | Difficulty |  Height  |

|----------------|----------|----------------|----------|------------|-------------| 

| Base to Temple | 3.5 km | 3,300 ft | 2–3 hrs | Moderate | 12,073 ft |

Suma, Vidya, and I saddled up at the base camp. My sore muscles left me little room for debate. The gear this time was far superior to what we’d endured en route to Rudranath — padded handles, sturdy and comfortable saddles, and handlers who inspired trust. The trek is a moderate one, and even first-time trekkers could do it. The elevation gain makes the trek a reasonably tough one!

           

Yours Truly and Vidya at the midpoint to Tunganath         Info about Chandrashila

The ride came with its own economics: riders over 80 kg pay extra (₹300 one way, ₹500 round trip); standard fares stood at ₹900 and ₹1,300. The mules/handlers will wait for an hour after reaching the destination at the top, for your return journey. My handler, concerned for his mule’s load, double-checked my weight before we continued. 

On the Way Up

The day was cool, with misty veils sweeping across the slopes and a gentle drizzle now and then. The path was a delight – smooth, steady, and worlds apart from Rudranath’s bone-jarring trail.

At the halfway tea stall, we paused. Our request for custom-brewed tea was politely declined, but the sight of young couples, some with babies in arms, cheerfully trekking uphill, warmed the moment more than any beverage.

The Final Stretch

After forty minutes, the mules halted at their allowed limit. From there, the climb was ours — steep steps, flanked by small shops, selling souvenirs, pooja items, etc. At the temple precinct, I fetched fresh mountain water for abhisheka. The sanctum of Lord Tunganath, the third Kedar, welcomed us in its quiet, ancient embrace. By the time we stepped back into the mountain air, from the sanctum sanctorum, Radha and Sujata had arrived for their darshana.

Tunganath (The Lord of Mountain Peaks) represents the Chest Part of Lord Shiva.

Around the main shrine, statues of Maa Parvati, Veerabhadra, and other deities stood sentinel. A temple official diligently recorded pilgrim numbers, though the system seemed partial at best.

The formidable five with Tunganath Temple in the background

Darshan ticked off, we went back to the thela where we had left our footwear and ponchos. Our stomachs were looking towards heaven to see if anything was coming down to them. 😋 The chef was making parathas at this thela, and we couldn't resist it. We sat down, savouring the best of the parathas in the tour so far. A group of local women gave us company as we chatted a while before bidding farewell and resumed our downward trek. 

       

Local womenfolk at the thela waiting for their turn for parathas.

Chandrashila: The Summit Unreached

Chandrashila, the peak of this place, is another 1.5 km climb from the Tunganath temple. It takes between 1 to 2 hours for this trek. The altitude climb is about 1,350 ft in this short distance, making the trek a difficult one as the trail is steep and requires some physical stamina. Chandrashila is the highest point in Uttarakhand. It is said to have mesmerising 360° views of the majestic Himalayan peaks of Kedarnath, Trishul, Chaukhamba, and Nanda Devi. 

That said, we couldn’t venture to trek there due to inclement weather and poor visibility.

Downhill Joy & Onward Roads

After capturing a few photos, we began our descent around noon. The downhill trek was a delight—almost enough to erase memories of our Rudranath ordeal. We reached the base camp in just over two hours, rain-soaked but content. We reached Chopta House, packed up, and aimed for Ransi, the base of the Madhya Maheshwar trek.

     

    

Some pics of the trekking track - 'Chalk and Cheese' compared to that of Rudranath.

By now, I’d had enough of trekking shoes; wearing sandals brought instant relief.

Ukhi Math – A Brief Pause

On the way, we stopped at Ukhi Math town, where Suma and I bought new footwear – costly due to mountain surcharge pricing, but understandable given the location. I realized later that I’d left my cap at the shop, hoping to retrieve it on our return.

Ukhi Math town is the home to Omkareshwar Temple, which is the place where the deities of Kedarnath and Madhya Maheshwar reside during winter closures. We planned to visit it on our way back.

The drive through the mountain passes was scenic yet demanding. A number of places where the mountain streams flow across the concrete roads require skilled driving. Mukesh, our driver, handled the terrain with remarkable patience and skill.

An Evening in Ransi

We reached Ransi before sunset and settled into Holiday Hills Home Stay. Clothes dripped dry on the balcony as hot tea chased away the chill. Dinner was a humble but satisfying mix of parathas, rice, and dal.

Later, a conversation with Sourabh – a solo motorbike trekker from Punjab – brought sobering news. The Madhya Maheshwar trail ahead was compromised: a collapsed bridge, a precarious trolley over a gorge, and rain-eaten paths. For our senior group, it was too risky.

Madhya Maheshwar represents the Stomach part of Lord Shiva.  

     

The Formidable Five                                              ....and with Sourabh

After a long discussion, we bowed to caution and called off the trek, planned for the next morning.

Synopsis of the two days:

A welcome rest on Day 5. Day 6 took us to the Tunganath trek, such a pleasant one, compared to Rudranath. We completed the second of five Kedars with this. Chandrashila, the highest point in Uttarakhand, remained elusive to us this time, due to weather factors. Reached Ransi, the base camp to Madhya Maheshwar, Day 6 evening, and taking a cue from the trekkers, we decided to call off our next day's trek.

Our next day's travelogue is in my Day 7 episode.

An attempt to visit Pancha Kedar and Pancha Badari! Day 4.

Day 4: 02/08/2025 – An Adventure Worth Remembering: 

A Morning of Magic and Mountains

Waking up at 5:15 AM, it appeared that our fatigue from the previous day had vanished without a trace. As we came out to a breathtaking sight - the sun rising over a horizon lined with snow-capped peaks and welcomed by the flawlessly azure, cloudless, and serene sky. We felt that the pains we underwent during the previous day were worth the trouble to capture such a sight in our natural, gigapixel cameras. We also captured the magic on our phones, each frame a tribute to the Sun God who seemed to smile down on us. With the warmth of the morning light, we took the chance to dry all of our damp clothes from the previous day.

     

      

Beautiful Pics of the Sunrise at Rudranath, early this morning.

Journey to Rudranath Temple

As we prepared for the temple visit, we gathered all the essentials that Suma usually carries for such occasions. Approaching Rudranath, we were awestruck by the temple’s entrance and its main structure, which jutted dramatically from the mountainside rock, housing the sacred Sanctum Sanctorum. We couldn't see this properly the previous evening due to the darkness.

Rudranath represents the face and the neck part of Lord Shiva. 

We took photos outside - photography inside the temple is strictly prohibited - both for our records and for our spirited team, “Teen Deviyan” (apologies to Radha, Sujata, and Vidya for the name!). Inside, we offered our prayers and handed over our offerings to the priest. A Sankalpa was performed in all our names for the abhisheka, though we couldn’t stay for the ritual due to time constraints.

      

A view of the Rudranath Temple embedded in the rocky mountain

     

                   Another view of the temple                   Rudranath (pic from the internet)

      

           The formidable Five                         The deity of Vanadevi 

                       

               

A view of many ancient undocumented temples in Rudranath. 

Breakfast and Kindness

Back at camp, we enjoyed a hearty breakfast of aloo paratha and tea. The group we’d met the previous day was there too. One of them, whose shoes had given way, gratefully accepted Suma’s spare footwear for the return trek - a small act of kindness that meant a lot.

The Descent Begins

We began planning our descent. Radha, determined and spirited, refused to ride her mule and joined a group of youngsters on foot. Her mule was repurposed to carry our backpacks, allowing us to travel light. Unfortunately, during the shuffle, we forgot to retain the essentials like torches and power banks - an oversight that would haunt us later.

Radha’s group started at 8:00 AM, and we followed around 8:30. Though advised to use mules till Pannar, Suma and Vidya chose to dismount at Pitrudhar, while Sujata and I rode on to Pannar. At Pitrudhar, we waited nearly half an hour before spotting Suma and Vidya, who were visibly upset due to issues with their mules and handlers. After a brief rest, they continued on foot.

A Scare and a Sigh of Relief

Sujata and I remounted and continued to Pannar. Upon arrival, Bijay helped me dismount, but Sujata’s mule, Tikki, suddenly bolted into the open meadow, giving us quite a scare. Bijay managed to rein her in, and Sujata, especially, breathed a deep sigh of relief. Shaken and also stirred (apologies, Ian Fleming), we paused to calm our nerves before continuing the trek downhill.

We were presumptuous in our thoughts of reaching the base camp by evening, and hence, we didn’t check for torches or power banks. My shoes, lacking proper grip, worried me—but they held up surprisingly well, and I didn’t slip once.

             

At Pitrudhar, with Bijay.

       

Some pics on our return from Rudranath.

Some pics of the trekking trail. [1]

Nature, Chanting, and Camaraderie

As we started to descend, we could see and feel the actual impediments in the form of asymmetrical stones in the pathway. Climbing downhill is always treacherous and exhausting. Yet we paused often to admire vibrant alpine flora and sweeping mountain vistas. The rain had ceased, and bright skies lifted our spirits.

We picked up the pace since our legs were used to walking now. We could see a lot of enthusiastic youngsters climbing and chanting ‘Har Har Mahadev’, ‘Jai Bholenath’, and ‘Om Namah Shivay’, and we reciprocated. One memorable sight was a young girl carrying her adorable Maltese dog. A sweet moment amid the rugged terrain. Very cute!

Two girls with their Maltese Dog, Cute! Note the trekking terrain!

Tea Breaks and Local Trekkers

We reached Lwinti Kharak and paused for tea, waiting for Suma and Vidya to catch up. I had a small stick to guide me downhill, and we bought one for Sujata, paying ₹50, which helped us move faster.

The trail was bustling with locals, many of whom trek here regularly over weekends. It was Saturday, and the crowd reflected the popularity of this spiritual journey.

After waiting for over half an hour, we resumed our descent and reached Mauli Kharak. There, we rested, refreshed ourselves, and were soon joined by Vidya and Suma. Together, we shared our cuppa and the aloo paratha we’d carried from Rudranath - a simple meal that tasted divine in the mountains.

The Final Descent: A Test of Grit and Grace

Our descent began slowly, hampered by the rugged terrain and my role as unofficial marshal of the group - sometimes leading, often lagging - to ensure everyone felt safe. As the hours passed, we realized our phone batteries were draining fast, and network signals were unreliable. By 3:00 PM, the looming threat of rain and early darkness pushed us to hasten our pace as much as the trail allowed.

Despite the urgency, we didn’t miss the chance to soak in the beauty around us. The path, though scenic, was strewn with uneven stones that slowed us down considerably. At times, it felt like we were moving at barely one kilometer per hour. The absence of signboards and inaccurate campsite information added to our confusion, and Google Maps was of little help due to poor connectivity.

Vidya, struggling with knee pain, suggested calling the police for assistance. I reached out to Radha, who had already made it to base camp, and asked her to seek help. Frustrated by the lack of clarity, I urged her to act quickly. With my phone battery down to 2%, I managed to get through to the police control room and explained our situation in fragmented calls, hoping they understood the gravity of our predicament.

Around 5:30 PM, just as despair began to set in, Bijay and a few others arrived with mules. We were still 3 - 4 km from base camp. Vidya and Sujata mounted the mules, but Suma, upset with the handlers’ attitude, refused and walked away. I told Bijay I’d convince her and hurried after her. Near Pung Kharak, I caught up and persuaded her to ride, reminding her of the late hour and her recent slip on the trail.

Sujata had already left with Bijay and another mule, Kaali. One handler asked me to wait at Pung Kharak for Bijay to return. After 20 minutes, impatience took over, and I resumed trekking. Another handler arrived with a mule, but it bolted again. With darkness closing in, I conserved my phone battery and pressed on.

On any other day, a solo trek through the forest would have been a joy. But not now. As the light dimmed, Robert Frost’s lines echoed in my mind:

“The woods are lovely, dark and deep,
But I have promises to keep,
And miles to go before I sleep.”

I fought off negative thoughts, prayed silently, and focused on the path. In that short span, I truly understood the weight of words like despair, loneliness, and helplessness.

A few hundred meters down, I reunited with Bijay - and to my surprise, Sujata. She shared her ordeal: Vidya had nearly fainted from low sugar or blood pressure and had to lie down. Sujata’s mule had returned with mine, but hers had also run off. Seeing her again was a huge relief.

The three of us continued on foot. My phone was nearly dead, and Bijay’s wasn’t far behind. We suggested he call for torches, but he said no one would come now. At one point, Sujata sat down, exhausted. We heard dogs barking and saw flashlights above us - hope surged. But it wasn’t a rescue team; it was a group of trekkers and a Nepali couple descending.

They were heaven-sent. One of them offered his torch, and the Nepali man offered to carry Sujata piggyback to base camp. I was hesitant, but Sujata bravely accepted. I prayed for her safety as she disappeared into the night.

With the borrowed torch, Bijay and I resumed our descent. He estimated another two hours to base camp. Suddenly, we heard the jingle of mule bells. In the dark, I got caught between them, and my hand was snagged in a belt. I was dragged a few feet before I managed to free myself, landing hard on my right side. My shoulder took the brunt, but thankfully, I wasn’t seriously injured.

Eventually, Bijay found the mule, and I mounted it with immense relief. Mules have remarkable night vision, and Bijay guided us with his flashlight. After what felt like an eternity, we reached the familiar Check Post. At a nearby shop, Sujata and the Nepali man were resting with the kind trekkers. We didn’t stop - Sujata resumed her piggyback ride, and we pressed on.

Finally, at 8:30 PM, we reached base camp. Sujata had arrived safely and thanked the Nepali man profusely. Officials from the Forest and Police Departments were already there, gathering details. I was touched by their swift response, triggered by my broken messages. The Inspector recorded my statement, and I did my best to explain the situation while shielding the mule handlers from blame. I later learned that even the local Tehsildar had called to check on us.

I must commend the exemplary service of the Police and Forest personnel, and especially Bijay, whose dedication went far beyond duty.

That night, we stayed in a homestay, had a simple dinner, and took painkillers for our aching muscles. In my separate room, I called my brother Vasu and recounted the entire saga. He had done this trek decades ago and could relate to every twist and turn. I don’t remember when I fell asleep - but I can say with certainty, it was the soundest sleep I’ve had in years.

Reflections on Rudranath

In hindsight, seasoned trekkers confirmed that the Rudranath trek is best done over 2-3 days starting from Sagar base camp, with breaks at campsites - especially if you’re not using mules.  

The trek from Sagar village, the popular starting point at around 2,200 meters (7,200 ft), to the Rudranath Temple involves a considerable elevation gain of about 1,400 (4,180 ft) to 3,600 meters (11,380 ft). This ascent is gradual but consistent, traversing diverse terrains, including dense forests, vibrant alpine meadows, and rocky paths. The elevation gain requires good physical fitness, stamina, and proper acclimatization.[2]

This trek is quite demanding as far as the physical fitness of the trekkers is concerned. Radha, a seasoned and avid trekker, said that this trek is one of the toughest and a bit heavy for beginners. Senior citizens are advised to exercise caution before embarking on this trek.

Fruits of labour, at the end of the trek up to Rudranath, are the lovely sights of snowcapped mountains, valleys, and wild flora, Rudranath Temple, Narada Kund, Saraswati Kund, lovely sunrise views, and perhaps a clear starry sky in the nights, fully justify the efforts of the trek.  

Below is the trekking map of Rudranath, just for reference: [3]

So much for our first long trek to Rudranath - an unforgettable journey of faith,  endurance, and camaraderie!

Synopsis of the day:

Except Radha, all of us were exhausted by the ordeal we underwent during the descent from Rudranath. Our knee-jerk reaction of dispatching our backpacks, without retrieving critical survival tools, exacerbated our speed and timing. 

Dog tired and with pains and aches all over, we were glad to hit the bed after dinner!?

Our next day's travelogue is in my Days 5 & 6 episode.

---

[1] From the website https: https://www.shutterstock.com/search/rudranath-trek

[2] From the website https://www.poojn.in/post/19572/rudranath-trek-altitude-elevation-difficulty-guide

[3] https://www.euttaranchal.com/tourism/rudranath-photos.php

An attempt to visit Pancha Kedar and Pancha Badari! Day 3.

Day 3: 01/08/2025 – Rudranath - our First Trek Beckons: 

Rudranath - Fourth of the Five Kedars

Waking up early on this morning (as will be our routine for the rest of our tour), we all had coffee/tea while breakfast was prepared, and so was our lunch, packed in boxes for later, during the trek. With Suma around, I never missed my morning cup of coffee, as she is a coffee aficionado. Radha and Sujata are tea buffs, while Vidya enjoys her glass of milk. Sujata and Radha prepared individual packs of snacks for munching during our long trek.

The Rudranath trek is considered the most difficult of the Panch Kedar treks. The route passes through dense forests, rocky paths, and high-altitude meadows, and continues through scenic paths and streams. On clear days, the trek offers views of the Himalayan peaks, including Nanda Devi and Trishul (though we weren’t lucky enough to sight these as the rains and mist hampered the visibility). We were surprised to note that the distance from Sagar Base Camp to Rudranath was not correctly represented anywhere. The correct distance is close to 23 km.

Leaving behind our main luggage with Mukesh, to be secured in the vehicle, we started off with our backpacks and a few other bags. From the roadside entrance to the trek, we had to walk up a few hundred meters to reach the place where we had to mount the horses. 

We had planned to start by 07h00, but were a tad late and reached Sagar village (the base camp to Rudranath) by 07h30. Then there was a long wait for the horses (mules) to be readied. This delay exasperated the members of the group and reminded me of the Samskruta proverb 'प्रथम चुम्बनम् दन्त भग्नम्' meaning 'First Kiss Broke The Tooth'! The height of it was when the handlers started mending the horseshoes of a couple of mules, in front of us. Suma lost her cool, and so did all of us, and we were wondering how good the trek would be!?

Finally, we started off at around 08h30, and despite our enthusiasm being dulled by the incidents, we carried on with the trek, muttering to ourselves about the delay, etc. 

This was my first trek on a mule (horse) back, and so was it for Sujata. Suma had agreed with the person who supplied the mules that there must be a handler for each of the mules. However, this wasn't so. While our first two mules had one attendant, Bijay, there were two attendants for the other three mules. Bijay was effective in handling both our mules, Tikki, which Sujata was riding, and Kaali, which I was riding. But he was very harsh and caning the mules. A couple of times, I, too, got a beating when he mis-hit the mule. 

                  

We soon reached the entry check-post at Sagar Forest Office, where our IDs were recorded, and since all were senior citizens, we had a discounted entry fee of Rs. 100/- each.

A point to note here is for the riders to be aware of the thorny plants that jet out of the fences of the agricultural fields by the side of the trekking track, as the mules tend to go near the fences. 

Another point to note is that there is no record of those returning from the trek, while there is a record for those entering the trek.

As we trotted along, I was amazed at the mules’ keen sense of synchronising their 4 legs, even on such uneven tracks. This was my first observation of the equine, and I had all the time in the world to focus on its trotting behaviour. Another characteristic  I noted about the mules was the way they climbed in a crisscross pattern, and particularly when the tracks were a bit wider. Suma had mentioned using this pattern while climbing up and down during our climb to the Bhadrakali Temple in Kashmir. More on this temple in my blog https://mycentortwo.blogspot.com/2023/11/my-trip-to-srinagar-day-2-22-nd.html.

Moving ahead, we could feel the strain the mules went through. The trekking path was strewn with stones of all sizes and haphazardly laid out (if at all). It appeared that no maintenance had been done since the time these stones were strewn across to make an apology for a trekking path.

The redeeming factor of the trek so far was the lush green forest area, as a significant portion of the trek goes through the dense vegetation of Rhododendron, Oak, and Pine trees, which can be slippery and tricky to navigate, especially after rain. Watch out for the leeches during the rainy season. The dense forest also limits visibility during rain, requiring careful attention while maneuvering the path. The gradient, at times, was almost 45°, and even the mules struggled and strained as they negotiated this.

Trotting along, the path was quite strenuous to mules too, as a kilometre into the trek, they were puffing and panting furiously while they took the liberty, eating grass and bush weeds along the sides of the path. Mountain streams across the trekking path, gave them the necessary liquid to hydrate. On one such occasion, Sujata’s mule stood in the stream to drink water, and as it came out of the water, it started struggling. Bijay soon discovered the problem and found that it was a leech that was stuck just above the hoof of its foreleg, and he got rid of it quickly. Also, one has to watch out for the tree branches or bent trunks that could hit your face or head. The mule will jolly well keep going, but you have to duck and take cover. Don't expect the handler to warn you if he is busy minding the mules.

The lush meadows of Pung Kharak (a distance of around 4 km into the trek) gave some respite to both the mules and their handlers. By the time we reached this place, the mules’ hearts were racing, and we could feel the beats when we touched their backs. It appeared that the mules weren’t well fed or well trained to listen to their handlers. Neither were the saddles softly cushioned nor the holding grips cushy enough to hold. By the time we completed our journey at Rudranath, we almost had blisters on our hands. 

Thereafter, it was eventless till we reached Mauli Kharak for a quick tea break and relief to the mules too. When I dismounted, I couldn't walk properly for a couple of minutes as I had lost my orientation. Also, the inner thighs were sore by rubbing against the rough saddle. We tried to settle down in one of the tents for our packed breakfast and also for a cuppa. Sujatha helped me ease off my backpack, and to her horror, a leech had attached on to her index finger and tried wriggling its way inside. She panicked, and I helped release it in no time. Her quick presence of mind made her rub the salt from one of the containers on the table. Despite this, she was complaining of the pain for a long time. Thereafter, we were careful about the leeches.

We met a couple of youngsters there, one of whom had a torn shoe sole. Vidya offered him the Velcro strap that we had to hold the sole and the shoe together. We met these guys the next day, and that is the story for another day.

Continuing our journey, for most of the time, Sujata’s mule was in the front and unattended, and she was fuming at Bijay for leaving it scot-free. He said he couldn’t let my mule in the front and lead hers by the bridle, as Kaali has the tendency to kick if someone is behind her!

A lesson: We learnt the way to ride on this trek. Bend your body to the front while climbing an incline and bend backward while climbing down the incline. We felt that the climbing down was more precarious than climbing up. On many such climbing down occasions, I had almost touched the neck of Kaali, due to jerks while climbing down the rough track. What prevented us from falling off the mules was tightly holding on to the turned rod (an apology of holding grips) and our feet clasped in the stirrups.

Radha and Suma had been the worst sufferers as they had been left high and dry by the behaviour of both the mules and their handlers, while Sujata kept screaming at Bijay every now and then.

The weather was nippy, and it was drizzling most of the time. The trek path took us through many beautiful sights of mountains, valleys, streams, forests, and meadows. On a couple of occasions, the path was so narrow and the mules were taking the wrong edge of the path to eat the grass along the border, while we were left staring wide-eyed into the deep ravine or the valley below where the drop was a few hundred feet and with our hearts pounding and racing (as we call in Kannada, 'ಎದೆಯಲ್ಲಿ ಅವಲಕ್ಕಿ ಕುಟ್ಟುತಾ ಇತ್ತು', meaning, 'Our heart was beating like it was pounding rice flakes'!). At times, this was on a tight slope with an ill-laid stone path, and while the mules took their step, we were short of falling off it to the front.  

At Pitrudhar, we were forced to get off our mules as there were bells hung from across a beam that was at a lower level. On crossing this, we mounted again, and at some point, further, we dismounted again as it was downhill, and walked for a few km. 

Between Pitrudhar and Rudranath, one can experience the sights of wild colourful flowers, a la Valley of Flowers! This sight is quite invigorating and can start producing dopamine (the feel-good hormone) in our bodies instantly!

         

        

Some Wild Flowers we came across on our way, and at Rudranath.

Rain kept coming down, and before I could put on my poncho, my jacket and jeans were drenched. The shoes had by now divorced from their grippy sole, and I felt that my toes were getting wet and were aching. Yet, I kept focusing on our final destination to divert my mind from the pain.

After what seemed an eternity, we could see the Rudranath settlement at a distance that lit up our eyes. By then, it was almost 17h00. We made arrangements with one of the few lodges there and asked for hot water and ginger tea. The big room (dormitory) was furnished with gaddis and blankets and a single light bulb. The toilet was a rundown tin shed, and there was no provision of hot water for bathing. Later on, we found that another lodge near this place had a hot water facility, and by then, it was too late for us to change the lodge. The argument of how much to pay for the mules, we should engage them for just a part of the return trek, went on till we slept. I kept remembering the phrase 'Till the cows came home', which was the favourite phrase in our office in South Africa.

Just before we knocked off, each of us took a tablet for relaxing muscles as our bums, sensitive areas, and legs were sore from mule-riding.

Suma recollected that she had stayed at this place during her last visit in 2015, and the facility had provided hot water. She also said that the trekking path was far better in that year, as compared to the current one.

I wouldn’t recommend this place to stay at Rudranath.

Caveat – the cell phone network in many of these places is sketchy, and particularly in Rudranath, only the Jio network could connect us with the outer world. Unfortunately, none of us had a Jio SIM, and we were cut off from the outer world for two days. Rudranath doesn’t have traditional electric power but relies on Solar power. We had carried our fully charged power bank – just in case, but never got to use it for reasons mentioned elsewhere.

We all had a quick rest and then went up to Rudranath Temple (300 meters away) in time for the evening Aarti. In the sequence of Pancha Kedar, Rudranath Temple ranks 4^th in the order Kedarnath, Madhya Maheshwar, Tunganath, and Kalpeshwar.

The idol of the deity here is very beautiful! One can see Lord Shiva smiling, and it appears that the lower lip is twisted into his mouth. It was the ‘Sundar Nath’ idol instead of the ‘Rudra Nath’! We couldn’t see the temple surroundings as it was quite dark by then.

A view of Rudranath Temple, 300 ft away from our camp.

We met the main priest (a cousin of Arun Joshi) and discussed the modalities for the next morning’s abhisheka. He suggested that we go there by 06h30 – 07h00. 

Synopsis of the day:

After a tough and arduous climb (though on a mule), and oh boy, were we happy to reach Rudranath and stretch our legs!? Visited the famous temple (one of the Pancha Kedar) in the evening, and we had the darshan of the beautiful idol of the deity. After dinner, we started our preparation for the return trek from Rudranath. 

Our next day's travelogue is in my Day 4 episode.

An attempt to visit Pancha Kedar and Pancha Badari! Day 2.

Day 2: 31/07/2025 – From the Plains to Dev Bhoomi - Uttarakhand: 

Just a point to note on a few Dhams in Uttarakhand: 

For visiting these Dhams (viz. Gangotri, Yamunotri, Kedarnath, Badarinath, and Hemkund Sahib), pilgrims must first register online on the Uttarakhand Tourism website, https://traveltrade.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in/signup, providing all relevant information and uploading Aadhaar details for domestic travellers and Passport details for foreign nationals. The entry pass will be generated, which you can download, and I suggest you take a printout of the same, as networking may be sketchy at times. These entry passes are checked at the relevant checkposts before entering the particular Dham.

An attempt to visit Pancha Kedar and Pancha Badari! Day 1.

Day 1: 30/07/2025 – Start of our Trek-filled Adventure: 

Prologue:

Having tasted the beauty of ‘Dev Bhoomi’ a la Uttarakhand, during November last year, I was yearning to revisit this place and the opportunity came through when Suma Aunty (please check my previous Badari Yaatre episodes of 2024 in https://mycentortwo.blogspot.com) called me sometime during March/April and suggested that we plan our trip around first fortnight of August.

The objective of this trip was to trek and visit the ancient Bansi Narayan Temple (more on this in the subsequent episode), where pooja is performed only once a year, on the full moon day of the Sravana month. Despite being fully aware of the perils of visiting this region during the inclement monsoon months, we had determined to go on this trip for the above reason. 

Additionally, our idea was to visit the Pancha Kedar (Kedarnath, Madhya Maheshwar, Tunganath, Rudranath, and Kalpeshwar) and Pancha (or Shasta) Badari (Badarinath, Aadi Badari, Dhyana Badari, Yoga Dhyana Badari, Vridda Badari, and Bhavishya Badari) this time around, and also some of the temples that we couldn’t visit previously.

Kedarnath remained closed since the 30^th of last month, and we hoped it would open up by the time we were scheduled to trek on the 3^rd instant.  

We were just a group of 5 (Suma Aunty – I will skip the ‘Aunty’ for brevity, Radha, and yours truly, from our earlier trip, and 2 new members – Vidya and Sujata) and as usual our tour operator Anil Joshi was roped in to vet our itinerary and to handle the logistics part of it.

My longtime friend Sujata, having read my blog about our earlier Badari Yaatre, had already made up her mind to join me/us in our sojourn. In her words, ‘I have already visited the described places virtually, thanks to your blog. I want to visit it physically this time around,” and joined the tour.

That said, we all did our preparations for the 15-day trip and loaded with energy bars, trail nuts, et al (courtesy – Sujata’s daughter in the USA) and a few other eats along with the usual fare of ready-to-eat mixes that Suma and Radha are regular with. Further, we prepared ourselves with travel gear and footwear to endure the planned treks this time – 5 treks in all, along with blocks of camphor, in a small bag (courtesy - Suma) hung by the neck. Smelling camphor when you feel breathless at high altitude improves the oxygen absorption by your lungs, and breathing becomes easy. 

As in the past, we packed off the supposedly excess baggage of the eatables and other heavy stuff before our departure, by rail (the cheapest mode) to New Delhi, where we would pick this up later.

Sujata had entrusted me with the responsibility of creating a group of her family members and other close circle friends on WhatsApp. I assured her that I will send a brief daily update to this group.

All points ticked off, we (four of us, excluding Suma) started early morning on the 30^th July, by air to New Delhi. She joined us in the afternoon in New Delhi, flying in from Indore.

Our trip, from now on:  

Landing in New Delhi around 8:00 in the morning on the 30^th July, we were met by Mr Mukesh (who would be our charioteer for the next fortnight) and took some time to load all our big luggage onto the hold, and we dumped all backpacks and smaller ones inside the Ertiga. 

At New Delhi airport, after landing.

Securing everything and covering it with plastic sheets to protect our luggage from the rain, our first stop was Birla’s Lakshmi Narayan Temple.

The weather was warm and humid, and very uncomfortable to our liking. Since traffic was a bit easy as it was still early for the peak hour, we reached the temple in a short while. Cell phones are not allowed inside the temple, and so we had to deposit all ours at the counter outside. The main deity of this temple complex is Lakshmi Narayana. There are other deities like Maa Durga, Hanuman, Ganesh, Shiva, and others. The temple premises were well-maintained, reflecting clean environs.

           

Lakshmi Narayan Mandir - New Delhi

We had tea and proceeded to our next stop, Akshardham, a beautiful and sprawling temple complex area in NOIDA, close to Arun’s office. Sujata and I got dropped off here while Radha and Vidya stayed back in the vehicle as they took off to Arun’s office to fetch the parcel sent earlier by rail.

The grandeur of the temple has to be seen and can’t be explained in words. Museums and other information galleries are located strategically to impart relevant and requisite information. Cleanliness is the hallmark of this complex, and neat arrangements have been made for the visitors to deposit their cameras, mobiles (again, mobiles and other stuff – except a small handbag/backpack, small ladies bag, etc. are not allowed inside the premises), and footwear in a separate enclosure just before we enter the main temple.

Akshardham - Noida

By the time we went around the temple that housed majestic idols of the main deities, we were tired out mainly due to the heat and humidity. A copious flow of water down our gullets kept our bodies hydrated. Collecting our footwear after we were out of the main temple, we ambled across to the food court. Impressively, it caters to a plethora of foodies with multicuisine offerings. All foods here are Satvik – devoid of Garlic and Onion, and while I had a go at their special Khichdi, Sujata tasted their Rajma and Rice. I must say that the food was quite tasty.

We picked up our cell phones, made our way to the vehicle, and parked ourselves at Haldiram’s restaurant just at the turning onto the freeway towards Haridwar. While we waited for Suma’s arrival, Radha and Vidya had their lunch here. By the time they were done, Suma arrived, and Mukesh packed her stuff. Suma too had her lunch, and off we went.

The vehicle was at its capacity from this point onwards. Except for a tea break after Meerut, it was non-stop travel till we reached our camping place – Sri Kashi Mutt, Haridwar, on the banks of the River Ganga. The drive was excellent, and since the vehicle was air-conditioned, we didn’t feel the prick of heat or humidity. We were a tad tired and skipped the famed Ganga Aarti (as we had time to see this on our return journey), got into our rooms, and rested for a while.

This place is quite sprawling with lots of greenery. We had two triple-bed rooms, comfortable and adequate to take care of our requirements. The River Ganga flows briskly to the east of this complex. Freshening up, we made it to the main temple comprising Sage Vyasa and his son Shuka Muni, flanked by the fathers of the four Vedas and Saptha Rishis. There is also a temple of Lord Hanuman over the Samadhi of Sri Sudhindra Thirta and a temple dedicated to Sri Veda Matha. The evening Aarti is performed at around 19h45 and thereafter, it was dinner time.

Moving to the dining area, we were pleasantly surprised to see that the plates were arranged neatly near the water filter and the handwash area. Visitors are expected to wash their plates and glasses before and after use. Dinner was simple: Rajma with rice, chapatis, and hot, lightly sugared milk to induce sleep. I quite relished the food, and I am sure others did too. Once done, we washed our plates and glasses and returned them to their specific places. 

Synopsis of the day: 

The day went well as planned, and the only concern was whether we could complete all the treks, since the rains continued to wreak havoc on the mountains.

More of our travel description is in my Day 2 episode.