My Trip To Srinigar - Day 2 - 22nd September 2023.

Chapter 2

We were to start at 6:00 am on the 22^nd but there was a delay in getting the vehicles arranged and off we went, closer to 7:00 am. We had a lot of ground to cover (temples to visit). First on our list was Sri Kheer Bhavani Durga Temple, a distance of around 23 km from our base camp. The beauty of this temple is that the main shrine is on an island and the legend goes that the water here changes its colour when the land and its environment are challenged in any way. We heard from the priest of this temple that the last time water had changed its colour was at the onset of the Kargil incursion. The temple’s main offering to the deity ‘Kheer’, is later distributed to the devotees as ‘Prasada’ and hence the name ‘Kheer Bhavani’.

I observed that most of the temples where regular pooja programs are conducted are being protected either by CRPF, BSF, or the like – it appears that ‘God needs man’s protection’! Another observation, this geographical region has the maximum share of the country’s Sharada temples.

Moving on, our next stop was Sharada Temple at Shardibal Kalusa, around 36 km from Kheer Bhavani Temple, Tulmulla. The priest (5^th generation) taking care of this temple mentioned that one of his forefathers who was a regular visitor to the original Sharada Temple couldn’t visit the shrine anymore, and was advised in his dream by Sharada Devi to establish the temple. The priest found Sharada Devi in ‘Pinda Roopa’ and installed it here. There is no record of how the Rama and Mahabala (Hanuman) idols were installed here. There is a Shiva Linga under an old tree that stands over 75 feet tall. It is said to be a Swayambhu (self-formed) with clearly visible jata (lock of hair) and the crescent of the moon as well on the head of the Shivalinga.

Next in tow was the Bhadrakali Temple atop the hill and one has to negotiate 450 plus steps to visit this beautiful temple. The CRPF Jawans who are taking care of this temple are doing a wonderful job. One of them, performing pooja, explained that the terrorists blasted this temple and the idol into smithereens. After this incursion, they were countered and the temple was rebuilt by the local people and the Indian Army. There is a dried-up pine tree behind the sanctum sanctorum here. Legend says that the tree, when cut, bled a blood-like liquid and therefore the tree was left uncut. Other deities in this huge hill complex are Ganesh, Hanuman and Shiva.

While climbing the hill, I was so enthusiastic and started off speeding as if I were 20-30 years younger.  Around 100-150 steps later, I found myself gasping for breath and instead of realising that I was not young anymore, I thought this was because of the altitude and thin air. I downloaded an app to check the altitude, which was around 7,500 ft above MSL. When brick-hit by the fact of age against me, I consoled myself and slowed my ascent to the top. It was a smooth affair from then on. Suma Aunty suggested that we climb up in a crisscross way (horses climb like that), and while climbing down, keep both feet on each of the steps every time, instead of climbing down with one foot on each step. This reduces the stress on the calf muscles and on the knees. A lesson learnt the hard way.

Moving on to our next point of interest, it was another Kheer Bhavani Temple at Tikker in Trehgam, Kupwara. This too is on an island, as in the earlier case. We had a similar prasad of Kheer here too. The priest here (also from CRPF) mentioned that the pond surrounding the deity has mystical properties. When flower petals are offered by devotees with devotion and some wish in their mind, the flowers falling onto the water's surface re-arrange themselves to provide some symbolic solution. We couldn’t wait for the results of our offering of petals to the pond as we had to move on to our next destination.

There we were at our next destination, Shiva Temple and also Chitragupt Kund. This is a beautiful place, a water source for the whole town of Halmat Pora in Kupwara and the place is, therefore, under the protection of CRPF. A huge mosque has been built in the adjoining place and we were told that they desired to encroach and occupy the land covered by the huge pond but it appears to have been thwarted by divine intervention. The CRPF personnel who were guarding the premises insisted that we taste the water from the source there and I must say it was the sweetest and cool gulps of water I had that day and even to this day I can remember the taste of that water.

God bless the CRPF and other personnel who are manning and performing the daily pooja at these temples amidst such adversities!

This was our penultimate stop before embarking on our last leg of the journey to Tithwal. The view throughout was very picturesque with mountains on all sides and long winding roads and we got to the first of the checkpoints in Chowkibal. Past this, we came to a place where there were a couple of refreshment stalls by the roadside. Needless to say, we dropped anchor here to quench the thirst of our parched throats and the tea vendor didn’t disappoint us. He brewed us one of the best masala teas and I had the pleasure of downing one more cuppa before we left. To our surprise, we saw ‘Nandini’ tetra pack milk at this tea stall. 

Moving on, we came to another checkpoint Sadhana Pass. The altitude here was around 10,700 ft above MSL. Once the formalities were completed, we started the descent on the winding road into the valley through villages en route and reached Tithwal around 8:00 in the evening. 

We could see a huge mountain in front of us as we approached our destination and were told that this was the other side of the border and there was a river flowing in between. The mountain was lit up at random places indicating the existence of life. Upon reaching our abode for the night, we were welcomed by Aijaz in his homestay. Aijaz is the effort and strength behind the construction of the Sharada Temple at Tithwal.

We were told that our dinner was arranged at the Army mess at Tithwal and so we treaded along on this moonlit night, a short walk to the camp. The mess was converted to a dormitory to accommodate the Kashmiri Pandits who came from far-off towns. As we got closer, we could hear bhajans being sung by the Pandit crowd. Suma Aunty and her cousin Veena joined the crowd and Veena sang a couple of devotional songs in Sanskrit and Kannada, which was appreciated by all in the crowd. We also had a chance to talk to the organisers, especially Shri Ravinder Pandita, who took us through the journey to date, in restoring the temple.

We were treated thereafter by dinner, simple yet tasty. Another short walk brought us back to our abode. After a bit of preparation for the next day, we dozed off totally exhausted.

More in my next chapter.....

My trip to Srinagar – Day 1 – 21st September 2023:

Chapter 1

It all started with an invite from Suma Aunty, who casually asked me if I was interested in joining her and a few others, on a trip to Tithwal. Now, this is a small village at the back of beyond and on the banks of Krishna Ganga River forming a border with POK (Pakistan-occupied Kashmir). On hearing the location, I had goosebumps as I had never ventured so far into the Northern Territory of India and so close to the border with a neighbouring country. My brother Vasu, who is a much-travelled person in this region, fuelled my interest in taking this journey without batting an eyelid.

Be that as it may, there was a religious event at this border village on the 23^rd of September and I had never travelled further than New Delhi, which meant a great opportunity for me to see that part of my unexplored world and I decided to go with the flow.

By the way, Suma Aunty had sat with me a fortnight before and planned the whole trip, intricately mapping the sequence of visits to various temples, shrines, and ruins, et al.

Got the tickets booked for the trip, and started packing for my 5 nights and 6 days adventure. My enthusiasm was that of a schoolchild who was promised a window seat on a train journey to an exotic holiday destination.

Eagerly waiting for D-day to arrive, I started packing clothes to wear, essentials, gloves and beanie caps, scarves, heavy jacket, medicine and whatnot? I was told to sacrifice my entire quota of check-in luggage (cargo) weight as this was taken up by the group in taking a few essential things for the Army Personnel at Tithwal. So, I had to cram my essentials into just my handbag and had to do away with all the non-essential stuff. A noble thought from the group members as this was the least, we could do to our heroes who ensured that we slept peacefully while they guarded the borders. We had an early morning flight which meant I had to either start from my house at 4:00am and pick up Suma Aunty on the way to the airport or, stay overnight at her place and start from there. I took the second option.

Our Vistara flight was from the newly opened T-2 and we had a chance to savour the much-touted new terminal. Indeed, it is beautifully decked and decorated. The place has to be seen to believe the grandeur. Local murals decked the walls along the passageway. Once we were through experiencing the new terminal, we settled down and awaited the call for our flight.

Off we went to Srinagar via New Delhi on the 21^st morning. The flight took off on time and arrived on time too. The connection to Srinagar was a short one and hence, we had to literally rush to a different gate to catch our flight to Srinagar. Efficient ground staff at the transit airport ensured that we could make it to the flight easily (but not so on our return journey – see my next article).

We reached Srinagar on time and after reaching the room, started unpacking the luggage, just enough for the evening as we were to start on our main journey early next day.

With a few of hours to spare that afternoon and as pre-planned, we started towards Sugandhesa Temple located around 28 km North-west of Srinagar. This is in ruins and we could just imagine the grandeur of what existed in historical times, as a great temple.

Next on our itinerary was Shankara Gourishwara temple, a short distance from the previous temple. Dedicated to God Shiva, this was in no better state than the earlier. We saw, to our dismay, kids from the nearby school loitering in this protected place. Perhaps ASI (Archaeological Society of India) needs to take additional measures so that the ruins don’t deteriorate further. This goes for all the places that have come under ASI’s belt.

We could get back in time for a quick stroll to one of the gates (Piers) of Dal Lake. This fantastic and much talked about picturesque lake was just a stone’s throw from our base camp (Hotel Victoria Palace). I had seen this in many a movie of yesteryears and those memories all came flooding as we started to slowly drift on the Lake, in our Shikara (boat). We were inundated by vendors on their boats as we ploughed through the waters of one of the large freshwater bodies. Flanked by Houseboats, with interesting names, we had a glimpse of Shankaracharya Temple on top of the hill, believed to have been the place where Adi Shankara performed his penance (more about this later). Watching the sunset over Dal Lake is an experience and no words can describe it. I am sure even the sunrise experience is equally ecstatic.

There is an island in the lake that has been converted into and named Nehru Park. Some renovations were on, on this otherwise so-so-kept garden. Only a few dahlias and roses were in bloom here. I am sure this would be a much-visited place in season and where the flowers would be in full bloom.

On our way back, the boatman took us to a crescent waterway aptly referred to as the Floating Market, with shops selling their wares from textiles to fashion items, carpets to draperies, dry fruits, nuts and so on.

By this time all the houseboats flanking the lake had lit up and what a sight it was to behold!

As we slowly glided towards our destination, I thought of how we lost showcasing this region, as a top tourist spot in the world (in recent decades), due to unrest created by politically motivated vested interest groups and a country sponsoring this.

We slowly dragged our feet to the base with our stomachs growling, for the last of the food we had was on the flight in the afternoon. Luckily, we had a great restaurant (Annapoorna Hotel) bang in front of our base and we crowded in and ordered parathas with curds and pickles. This devoured, we retired post-packing for our journey the next day leaving the bulk of our luggage behind at the lodge while remembering to pack all the stuff we had specially brought for the Army Personnel.

Sughandeswara Temple Pictures:

Shankara Gourishwara Temple:

The scenic Dal Lake:

More in my next chapter......