My trip to Srinagar – Day 1 – 21st September 2023:

Chapter 1

It all started with an invite from Suma Aunty, who casually asked me if I was interested in joining her and a few others, on a trip to Tithwal. Now, this is a small village at the back of beyond and on the banks of Krishna Ganga River forming a border with POK (Pakistan-occupied Kashmir). On hearing the location, I had goosebumps as I had never ventured so far into the Northern Territory of India and so close to the border with a neighbouring country. My brother Vasu, who is a much-travelled person in this region, fuelled my interest in taking this journey without batting an eyelid.

Be that as it may, there was a religious event at this border village on the 23^rd of September and I had never travelled further than New Delhi, which meant a great opportunity for me to see that part of my unexplored world and I decided to go with the flow.

By the way, Suma Aunty had sat with me a fortnight before and planned the whole trip, intricately mapping the sequence of visits to various temples, shrines, and ruins, et al.

Got the tickets booked for the trip, and started packing for my 5 nights and 6 days adventure. My enthusiasm was that of a schoolchild who was promised a window seat on a train journey to an exotic holiday destination.

Eagerly waiting for D-day to arrive, I started packing clothes to wear, essentials, gloves and beanie caps, scarves, heavy jacket, medicine and whatnot? I was told to sacrifice my entire quota of check-in luggage (cargo) weight as this was taken up by the group in taking a few essential things for the Army Personnel at Tithwal. So, I had to cram my essentials into just my handbag and had to do away with all the non-essential stuff. A noble thought from the group members as this was the least, we could do to our heroes who ensured that we slept peacefully while they guarded the borders. We had an early morning flight which meant I had to either start from my house at 4:00am and pick up Suma Aunty on the way to the airport or, stay overnight at her place and start from there. I took the second option.

Our Vistara flight was from the newly opened T-2 and we had a chance to savour the much-touted new terminal. Indeed, it is beautifully decked and decorated. The place has to be seen to believe the grandeur. Local murals decked the walls along the passageway. Once we were through experiencing the new terminal, we settled down and awaited the call for our flight.

Off we went to Srinagar via New Delhi on the 21^st morning. The flight took off on time and arrived on time too. The connection to Srinagar was a short one and hence, we had to literally rush to a different gate to catch our flight to Srinagar. Efficient ground staff at the transit airport ensured that we could make it to the flight easily (but not so on our return journey – see my next article).

We reached Srinagar on time and after reaching the room, started unpacking the luggage, just enough for the evening as we were to start on our main journey early next day.

With a few of hours to spare that afternoon and as pre-planned, we started towards Sugandhesa Temple located around 28 km North-west of Srinagar. This is in ruins and we could just imagine the grandeur of what existed in historical times, as a great temple.

Next on our itinerary was Shankara Gourishwara temple, a short distance from the previous temple. Dedicated to God Shiva, this was in no better state than the earlier. We saw, to our dismay, kids from the nearby school loitering in this protected place. Perhaps ASI (Archaeological Society of India) needs to take additional measures so that the ruins don’t deteriorate further. This goes for all the places that have come under ASI’s belt.

We could get back in time for a quick stroll to one of the gates (Piers) of Dal Lake. This fantastic and much talked about picturesque lake was just a stone’s throw from our base camp (Hotel Victoria Palace). I had seen this in many a movie of yesteryears and those memories all came flooding as we started to slowly drift on the Lake, in our Shikara (boat). We were inundated by vendors on their boats as we ploughed through the waters of one of the large freshwater bodies. Flanked by Houseboats, with interesting names, we had a glimpse of Shankaracharya Temple on top of the hill, believed to have been the place where Adi Shankara performed his penance (more about this later). Watching the sunset over Dal Lake is an experience and no words can describe it. I am sure even the sunrise experience is equally ecstatic.

There is an island in the lake that has been converted into and named Nehru Park. Some renovations were on, on this otherwise so-so-kept garden. Only a few dahlias and roses were in bloom here. I am sure this would be a much-visited place in season and where the flowers would be in full bloom.

On our way back, the boatman took us to a crescent waterway aptly referred to as the Floating Market, with shops selling their wares from textiles to fashion items, carpets to draperies, dry fruits, nuts and so on.

By this time all the houseboats flanking the lake had lit up and what a sight it was to behold!

As we slowly glided towards our destination, I thought of how we lost showcasing this region, as a top tourist spot in the world (in recent decades), due to unrest created by politically motivated vested interest groups and a country sponsoring this.

We slowly dragged our feet to the base with our stomachs growling, for the last of the food we had was on the flight in the afternoon. Luckily, we had a great restaurant (Annapoorna Hotel) bang in front of our base and we crowded in and ordered parathas with curds and pickles. This devoured, we retired post-packing for our journey the next day leaving the bulk of our luggage behind at the lodge while remembering to pack all the stuff we had specially brought for the Army Personnel.

Sughandeswara Temple Pictures:

Shankara Gourishwara Temple:

The scenic Dal Lake:

More in my next chapter......